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Élisabeth Vigée Le Brun
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==== England ==== {{Unreferenced section|date=February 2025}} Vigée Le Brun arrived at [[Dover]], where she took the stagecoach to [[London]], accompanied by the woman who would become her lifetime friend and chambermaid, Mme Adélaïde, who later married M. Contat, Vigée Le Brun's accountant. Vigée Le Brun was confused by the large crowd at the quays but was reassured that it was common for crowds of curious people to observe disembarking travelers in England. She had been told that highwaymen were common in England, and so hid her diamonds in her stocking. During her ride to London, she was greatly frightened by two riders who approached the stagecoach whom she thought were bandits, but nothing came of it. Upon her arrival at London, she lodged at the Brunet hotel in [[Leicester Square]]. She could not sleep during her first night due to noise from her upstairs neighbor, who she found next morning was none other than the poet [[François-Auguste Parseval-Grandmaison]], whom she had known from Paris. He always paced while reading or reciting his poetry. He promised her to take care not to interrupt her sleep, and she was able to rest well for the next night. Wishing to find a more permanent lodging, a compatriot named Charmilly directed her to a house in Beck Street, which overlooked the Royal Guards barracks. Vigée Le Brun terminated her residence there because of the noise from the barracks; in her words, "...every morning between three and four o'clock there was a trumpet blast so loud that it could have served for the day of judgement. The noise of the trumpet, together with that of the horses whose stables lay directly beneath my window, prevented me from catching any sleep at all. In the daytime there was a constant din made by the neighbor's children...". Vigée Le Brun then moved to a beautiful house in [[Portman Square]]. Upon closely scrutinizing the house's surroundings for any acoustic nuisance, she took up lodging there, only to be awakened at daybreak by a great screeching from a large bird owned by her neighbor. Later on, she also discovered that the former residents had buried two of their slaves in the cellar, where their bodies remained, and once again she decided to move, this time to a very damp building in [[Maddox Street]]. Although this was far from perfect, the artist was exhausted from constant moving, and decided to remain there, though the dampness of the house, combined with London's humid weather – greatly disliked by the artist – hindered her painting process. Vigée Le Brun found London lacking in inspiration for an artist due to its lack of public galleries at that time. She visited monuments, including [[Westminster Abbey]], where she was greatly affected by the tomb of [[Mary, Queen of Scots]], and visited the sarcophagi of the poets [[William Shakespeare]], [[Thomas Chatterton]] and [[Alexander Pope]]. She also visited [[St Paul's Cathedral]], the [[Tower of London]] and the London Museum. She greatly disliked the austere social customs of the English, particularly how quiet and empty the city was on [[Lord's Day|Sundays]], when all shops were closed and no social gatherings took place; the only pastime was the city's long walks. The artist also did not enjoy the local soiree equivalent – known as [[Rout#Other uses of the term|Routs]] (or rout-parties), describing them as stuffy and dour. The artist sought out the tree under which the famous poet [[John Milton]] was said to have composed ''[[Paradise Lost]]'', but was surprised to find that it had been cut down. The artist visited the galleries of several prominent artists while in London, starting with the studio of artist [[Benjamin West]]. She also viewed some works by [[Joshua Reynolds]]. Vigée Le Brun was surprised to find that it was customary in England for visitors to the studios of artists to pay a small fee to the artist. Vigée Le Brun did not adhere to this local custom, and allowed her servant to pocket this toll. She was greatly pleased to meet one of the most famous actress and tragediennes of her era, [[Sarah Siddons]], who visited Vigée Le Brun's studio in Maddox Street. During her stay in London, the English portraitist [[John Hoppner]] published a speech that viciously criticized her, her art and French artists in general, to which she made a scathing reply by letter which she published later in her life as part of her memoirs. Vigée Le Brun continued to hold soirées and receptions in her house, which although damp, was beautiful. She received many people, including the Prince of Wales [[George IV]], [[Isabella Ingram-Seymour-Conway, Marchioness of Hertford|Lady Hertford]] and [[John Parker, 1st Earl of Morley|Lord Borington]] and the famous actress [[Giuseppina Grassini]] among others. Vigée Le Brun sought out other compatriots during her stay in England, and cultivated a social circle of émigrés that included the Comte d'Artois (future [[Charles X of France|King Charles X]]) and his son [[Charles Ferdinand, Duke of Berry]], the Duc de Serant and the Duc de Rivière. Shortly after her arrival in London, the [[Treaty of Amiens]] was abrogated, and hostilities between France and the [[United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland|United Kingdom]] resumed. The British Government ordered all French people who had not resided more than a year in the UK to depart immediately. The Prince of Wales reassured Vigée Le Brun that this would not affect her, and she might reside in England however long she pleased. This permit from the King was difficult to procure, but the Prince of Wales personally delivered the permit to Vigée Le Brun. Vigée Le Brun toured the countryside during her stay in England. She started with a visit to Margaret Chinnery at [[Gilwell Park|Gilwell Hall]], where she received a "charming welcome" and met the famous musician [[Giovanni Battista Viotti]], who composed a song for her which was sung by Mrs. Chinnery's daughter. She painted Mrs. Chinnery and her children whilst there, departing for Windsor after staying at Gilwell for a fortnight. She also visited [[Windsor Great Park|Windsor Park]] and [[Hampton Court Palace|Hampton Court]] on the outskirts of London before leaving to visit [[Bath, Somerset|Bath]], where she greatly enjoyed the picturesque architecture of the city, its rolling hills and the countryside; but much like London, she found its society and weather dreary. She found some of her Russian friends from Saint Petersburg there, and went to visit the astronomer siblings [[William Herschel]] and [[Caroline Herschel]]. William Herschel showed Vigée Le Brun detailed maps of the moon, among other things. The artist greatly enjoyed the English countryside, describing [[Matlock Bath|Matlock]] as being as picturesque as the Swiss countryside. Vigée Le Brun also visited the Duchess of Dorset at [[Knole|Knole House]] in [[Kent]], which had once been owned by [[Elizabeth I]]. She returned to London, where she found [[Joseph Hyacinthe François de Paule de Rigaud, Comte de Vaudreuil]], and then went to [[Twickenham]] where she visited Mme la Comtesse de Vaudreuil and [[Antoine Philippe, Duke of Montpensier]], with whom Vigée Le Brun became well acquainted; they enjoyed painting the countryside together. She was subsequently received by the [[Duke of Orléans|Duc d'Orléans]] (the future King [[Louis Philippe I]]). She then visited the [[Elizabeth, Princess Berkeley|Margravine of Brandenburg-Ansbach, the Baroness Craven]], whom she painted and came to greatly enjoy her company, spending three weeks at her estate. Together, they visited the [[Isle of Wight]], where Vigée Le Brun was mesmerized by the beauty of the countryside and the amiability of its inhabitants, writing later that along with the [[Ischia|Isle of Ischia]] (near Naples), these were the only two places where she would happily spend her entire life.<ref name="Memoirs" /> She visited Mary Elizabeth Grenville, Marchioness of Buckingham, at [[Stowe House|Stowe]]. She also went to the home of [[Francis Rawdon-Hastings, 1st Marquess of Hastings|Lord Moira]] and his sister Charlotte Adelaide Constantia Rawdon, where Vigée Le Brun further experienced the stern social milieu of English aristocracy; she spent some of the winter there. She then departed for [[Warwick Castle]], eager to see this after hearing it praised so much. Vigée Le Brun attempted to visit the area incognito to avoid any awkwardness with [[George Greville, 2nd Earl of Warwick|Lord Warwick]], as he would receive foreigners only if he knew their name. When he became aware that Vigée Le Brun was visiting, he went to her in person and gave her a decorous reception. After introducing the artist to his wife, he took her on a tour around the castle, looking over the lavish art collection there. He presented her with two drawings which she had sketched in [[William Hamilton (diplomat)|Sir William Hamilton's]] summerhouse during her stay in Italy, telling her that he had paid a high price to buy them from his nephew. Vigée Le Brun later wrote that she had never sold them to Sir William to begin with. He also presented to her the famous [[Warwick Vase|Warwick vase]], which he had purchased from Sir William as well. Vigée Le Brun then ended her tour by visiting [[Blenheim Palace]] before returning to London, and preparing to depart for France after staying in England for nearly three years. Upon her imminent departure becoming known, many of her acquaintances attempted to extend her residence with them, but to no avail as Vigée Le Brun wanted to see her daughter, who was in Paris at the time. As she prepared to leave London, Mme Grassini arrived and then accompanied her, staying with her until her ship departed for [[Rotterdam]], ending a trip that was originally intended to last only five months.
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