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===Medieval and modern Europe=== [[File:Folding Fan with Box LACMA M.78.108.6a-b (2 of 2).jpg|thumb|Silk satin leaf, wood sticks, and guards, c. 1890]] Italy was the most important producer of silk during the Medieval age. The first center to introduce silk production to Italy was the city of [[Catanzaro]] during the 11th century in the region of [[Calabria]]. The silk of Catanzaro supplied almost all of Europe and was sold in a large market fair in the port of [[Reggio Calabria]], to Spanish, Venetian, Genovese, and Dutch merchants. Catanzaro became the lace capital of the world with a large silkworm breeding facility that produced all the laces and linens used in the Vatican. The city was world-famous for its fine fabrication of silks, velvets, damasks, and brocades.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.officeoftourism.org/europe/italy/Calabria/catanzaro.asp |website=Office of Tourism |title=Italy – Calabria, Catanzaro |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150821045739/http://www.officeoftourism.org/europe/italy/Calabria/catanzaro.asp |archive-date=21 August 2015}}</ref> Another notable center was the Italian [[city-state]] of [[Republic of Lucca|Lucca]] which largely financed itself through silk-production and silk-trading, beginning in the 12th century. Other Italian cities involved in silk production were [[Genoa]], [[Venice]], and [[Florence]]. The [[Piedmont]] area of Northern Italy became a major silk producing area when water-powered silk throwing machines were developed.<ref name="postrel">{{cite book |last1=Postrel |first1=Virginia |title=The Fabric of Civilization |date=2020 |publisher=Basic Books |location=New York |isbn=9781541617629 |pages=55–59}}</ref> The [[Llotja de la Seda|Silk Exchange in Valencia]] from the 15th century—where previously in 1348 also ''perxal'' ([[percale]]) was traded as some kind of silk—illustrates the power and wealth of one of the great Mediterranean mercantile cities.<ref>{{cite web |url=https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/782 |title=La Lonja de la Seda de Valencia |website=UNESCO World Heritage Centre |publisher=Whc.unesco.org |access-date=2011-04-10 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110514032507/https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/782 |archive-date=14 May 2011}}</ref><ref>Diccionari Aguiló: materials lexicogràfics / aplegats per Marià Aguiló i Fuster; revisats i publicats sota la cura de Pompeu Fabra i Manuel de Montoliu, page 134, [[Institut d'Estudis Catalans]], Barcelona 1929.</ref> Silk was produced in and exported from the province of [[Granada]], Spain, especially the [[Alpujarras]] region, until the [[Morisco rebellions in Granada|Moriscos]], whose industry it was, were expelled from Granada in 1571.<ref>Delgado, José Luis (8 October 2012) [http://www.granadahoy.com/article/granada/1370023/la/seda/granada/era/la/mejor.html "La seda de Granada era la mejor"] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140826160819/http://www.granadahoy.com/article/granada/1370023/la/seda/granada/era/la/mejor.html |date=26 August 2014}}, ''Granada Hoy''</ref><ref>Intxausti, Aurora (1 May 2013) [http://cultura.elpais.com/cultura/2013/04/29/actualidad/1367255987_780232.html "La Alpujarra poseía 4.000 telares de seda antes de la expulsión de los moriscos"] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140826115739/http://cultura.elpais.com/cultura/2013/04/29/actualidad/1367255987_780232.html |date=26 August 2014}}, ''El País''.</ref> Since the 15th century, silk production in France has been centered around the city of [[Lyon, France|Lyon]] where many mechanic tools for mass production were first introduced in the 17th century. [[File:Anoniem - La charmante rencontre.JPG|thumb|"La charmante rencontre", rare 18th-century embroidery in silk of Lyon (private collection)]] [[James I of England|James I]] attempted to establish silk production in England, purchasing and planting 100,000 mulberry trees, some on land adjacent to [[Hampton Court Palace]], but they were of a species unsuited to the silk worms, and the attempt failed. In 1732 John Guardivaglio set up a [[silk throwing]] enterprise at [[List of mills in Stockport|Logwood mill in Stockport]]; in 1744, Burton Mill was erected in [[Macclesfield]]; and in 1753 Old Mill was built in [[Congleton]].<ref name=Callender>{{Harvnb|Callandine|1993}}</ref> These three towns remained the centre of the English silk throwing industry until silk throwing was replaced by [[silk waste|silk waste spinning]]. British enterprise also established silk filature in [[Cyprus]] in 1928. In England in the mid-20th century, raw silk was produced at [[Lullingstone Castle]] in Kent. Silkworms were raised and reeled under the direction of [[Zoe Dyke|Zoe Lady Hart Dyke]], later moving to [[Ayot St Lawrence]] in Hertfordshire in 1956.<ref>{{cite web |title=Lullingstone Silk Farm |url=http://www.lullingstonecastle.co.uk/component/content/article/223 |website=www.lullingstonecastle.co.uk |access-date=29 September 2016 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150110040554/http://www.lullingstonecastle.co.uk/component/content/article/223 |archive-date=10 January 2015}}</ref> During [[World War II]], supplies of silk for UK parachute manufacture were secured from the Middle East by [[Peter Gaddum]].<ref>{{cite web |url=https://pearl.plymouth.ac.uk/bitstream/handle/10026.1/3553/2014bond10376351phd.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y |title=MI9's escape and evasion mapping programme 1939-1945 |last=BOND |first=Barbara A |date=2014 |website=University of Plymouth |access-date=4 March 2020 |archive-date=19 January 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210119205515/https://pearl.plymouth.ac.uk/bitstream/handle/10026.1/3553/2014bond10376351phd.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y |url-status=live }}</ref> <gallery widths="200px" heights="200px" perrow="5" caption="Medieval and modern Europe"> File:Vestido Javiera Carrera.jpg|Dress made from silk File:WLA vanda Bed lit a la polonaise.jpg|Bed covered with silk File:"Almgrensrosen"- ett 100 år gammalt mönster 2013.JPG|A hundred-year-old pattern of silk called "Almgrensrosen" File:Necktie knot.jpg|The [[necktie]] originates from the [[cravat (early)|cravat]], a neckband made from silk.<ref>{{cite news |newspaper=The New York Times |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1995/07/30/magazine/style-dressed-to-kill.html |title=STYLE; Dressed to Kill |author=Nash, Eric P. |date=30 July 1995 |access-date=12 October 2011 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121109043724/http://www.nytimes.com/1995/07/30/magazine/style-dressed-to-kill.html |archive-date=9 November 2012}}</ref><ref>{{cite journal |journal=Povijesni prilozi |url=http://hrcak.srce.hr/index.php?show=clanak&id_clanak_jezik=43829 |issn=0351-9767 |date=July 2008 |volume=34 |issue=34 |pages=103–120 |author=Huzjan, Vladimir |title=Pokušaj otkrivanja nastanka i razvoja kravate kao riječi i odjevnoga predmeta |language=hr |trans-title=The origin and development of the tie (kravata) as a word and as a garment |access-date=17 October 2011 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120629045016/http://hrcak.srce.hr/index.php?show=clanak&id_clanak_jezik=43829 |archive-date=29 June 2012}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.inyourpocket.com/croatia/dubrovnik/Silk-Production-in-Konavle_72514f |title=Silk Production in Konavle |access-date=22 April 2015 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150501234528/http://www.inyourpocket.com/croatia/dubrovnik/Silk-Production-in-Konavle_72514f |archive-date=1 May 2015}}</ref> </gallery>
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