Editing Goth subculture (section)

===Fashion===
{{main|Gothic fashion}}
[[File:Gothic girl.jpg|thumb|A woman dressed in gothic style in the 1980s]]

====Influences====
One female role model is [[Theda Bara]], the 1910s [[femme fatale]] known for her dark eyeshadow.<ref>{{harvnb|Hannaham|1997|p=93}}</ref><ref name="steele26">{{harvnb|Steele|Park|2008|p=26}}</ref> In 1977, [[Karl Lagerfeld]] hosted the Soirée Moratoire Noir party, specifying "tenue tragique noire absolument obligatoire" (black tragic dress absolutely required).<ref name=steele35>{{harvnb|Steele|Park|2008|p=35}}</ref> The event included elements associated with [[leather subculture|leatherman]] style.<ref name=steele35/>

[[Siouxsie Sioux]] was particularly influential on the dress style of the [[gothic rock]] scene; [[Paul Morley]] of ''[[NME]]'' described [[Siouxsie and the Banshees]]' 1980 gig at Futurama: "[Siouxsie was] modeling her newest outfit, the one that will influence how all the girls dress over the next few months. About half the girls at Leeds had used Sioux as a basis for their appearance, hair to ankle".<ref>Reynolds, p. 425.</ref> [[Robert Smith (musician)|Robert Smith]],<ref>{{harvnb|Hannaham|1997|p=113}}</ref> [[Musidora]], [[Bela Lugosi]],<ref>{{harvnb|Steele|Park|2008|p=18}}</ref> [[Bettie Page]], [[Maila Nurmi|Vampira]], [[Morticia Addams]],<ref name=steele26/> [[Nico]], [[Rozz Williams]], [[David Bowie]]<ref name=grunenberg2/> and [[Lux Interior]]<ref name=grunenberg2/> are also style icons.

The 1980s established designers such as [[Drew Bernstein|Drew Bernstein of Lip Service]], and the 1990s saw a surge of US-based [[gothic fashion]] designers, many of whom continue to evolve the style to the present day. Style magazines such as ''[[Gothic Beauty]]'' have given repeat features to a select few gothic fashion designers who began their labels in the 1990s, such as Kambriel, [[Rose Mortem]], and Tyler Ondine of Heavy Red.<ref>{{cite web |last=Holiday |first=Steven |date= 12 December 2014 |title= Gothic Beauty |url= http://www.gothicbeauty.com |location= Portland, OR |publisher=Holiday Media |access-date= 12 December 2014 }}</ref>

American model [[Gabbriette]] who has been known for her goth aesthetic, has been at the forefront of what has been dubbed the "Succubus Chic" trend of 2023.<ref>{{Cite web |first=Natalie |last=Michie |date=2023-02-03 |title=Skinny Eyebrows Are the Latest '90s Beauty Trend to Return |url=https://fashionmagazine.com/beauty-grooming/skinny-eyebrows/ |access-date=2023-09-11 |website=FASHION Magazine |language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=Dazed |date=2023-01-09 |title=Succubus chic: get to know the deadly new It Girl |url=https://www.dazeddigital.com/beauty/article/57887/1/succubus-chic-2023-new-it-girl-angelina-jolie-kylie-jenner-arca-ghoul-girl |access-date=2023-09-11 |website=Dazed |language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=What is the succubus-chic aesthetic? |url=https://www.harpersbazaar.in/beauty/story/what-is-the-succubus-chic-aesthetic-564914-2023-01-12 |access-date=2023-09-11 |website=Harper Bazar |language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |date=2023-05-12 |title=Succubus chic, la tendencia de TikTok que representa el ideal más antiguo (y problemático) |url=https://www.vogue.es/articulos/succubus-chic-tiktok-enfermedad-historia-arte |access-date=2023-09-11 |website=Vogue España |language=es-ES}}</ref>

====Styling====
Gothic fashion is marked by conspicuously dark, antiquated, and homogeneous features. It is stereotyped as eerie, mysterious, complex, and exotic.<ref name="lr">{{cite news |author=La Ferla, Ruth |title=Embrace the Darkness |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2005/10/30/fashion/sundaystyles/30GOTH.html |work=The New York Times |date=30 October 2005 |access-date=25 January 2012}}</ref> A dark, sometimes morbid fashion and style of [[clothing|dress]],<ref name="grunenberg2">{{harvnb|Grunenberg|1997|p=172}}</ref> typical gothic fashion includes [[Hair colouring|colored]] black hair and black period-styled clothing.<ref name="grunenberg2" /> Both male and female goths can wear dark [[Eye liner|eyeliner]] and dark fingernail polish, most especially black. Styles are often borrowed from [[punk fashion]] and—more currently—from the [[Victorian fashion|Victorian]] and [[1550–1600 in Western European fashion#Elizabethan Style|Elizabethan]] periods.<ref name=grunenberg2/> It also frequently expresses pagan, occult or other [[religious symbolism|religious imagery]].<ref name = "ELipton1">Eric Lipton [http://www.lettuce.org/clipGoff.htm Disturbed Shooters Weren't True Goth] from the Chicago Tribune, 27 April 1999</ref> Gothic fashion and styling may also feature [[silver]] jewelry and piercings.

[[File:Shopping for hats (5139446754).jpg|thumb|A gothic clothing store in 2010]]
[[Ted Polhemus]] described goth fashion as a "profusion of black velvets, lace, fishnets and leather tinged with scarlet or purple, accessorized with tightly laced corsets, gloves, precarious stilettos and silver jewelry depicting religious or occult themes".<ref>{{cite book |last=Polhemus |first=Ted |author-link=Ted Polhemus |year=1994 |title=Street Style |location=London |publisher=Thames & Hudson |page=97}} Cited in {{harvnb|Mellins|2013|pp=17–18}}.</ref> Of the male "goth look", goth historian Pete Scathe draws a distinction between the Sid Vicious archetype of black spiky hair and black leather jacket in contrast to the gender ambiguous individuals wearing makeup. The first is the early goth gig-going look, which was essentially punk, whereas the second evolved into the Batcave nightclub look. Early goth gigs were often very hectic affairs, and the audience dressed accordingly.

In contrast to the [[Live action role-playing game#Genres|LARP]]-based Victorian and Elizabethan pomposity of the 2000s, the more Romantic side of 1980s trad-goth—mainly represented by women—was characterized by new wave/post-punk-oriented hairstyles (both long and short, partly shaved and teased) and street-compliant clothing, including black frill blouses, midi dresses or tea-length skirts, and floral lace tights, [[Dr. Martens]], spike heels (pumps), and pointed-toe buckle boots ([[winklepickers]]), sometimes supplemented with accessories such as bracelets, chokers and bib necklaces. This style, retroactively referred to as ''Ethergoth'', took its inspiration from Siouxsie Sioux and mid-1980s musicians from the 4AD roster like [[Elizabeth Fraser]] and [[Lisa Gerrard]].<ref>Aurelio Voltaire Hernandez: ''What Is Goth?'', Publishers Group UK, {{ISBN|1-578-63322-2}}<br />''"Serene, thoughtful and creative, ethergoths are defined by their affinity ... darkwave and classically inspired Gothic music. Ethergoths are more likely to be found sipping tea, writing poetry and listening to the Cocteau Twins than jumping up and down at a club."''</ref>

''[[The New York Times]]'' noted: "The costumes and ornaments are a glamorous cover for the genre's somber themes. In the world of Goth, nature itself lurks as a malign protagonist, causing flesh to rot, rivers to flood, monuments to crumble and women to turn into slatterns, their hair streaming and lipstick askew".<ref name= lr/>

Cintra Wilson declares that the origins of the dark romantic style are found in the "[[Victorian fashion|Victorian]] cult of mourning".<ref name="cintra">{{cite news |last=Wilson |first=Cintra |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2008/09/18/fashion/18GOTH.html |title=You just can't kill it |work=[[The New York Times]] |date=17 September 2008 |access-date=18 September 2008}}</ref> [[Valerie Steele]] is an expert in the history of the style.<ref name="cintra" />

====Reciprocity====
[[File:Goth weekends (63615643).jpg|thumb|Two goths in Victorian-inspired clothing]]
Goth fashion has a reciprocal relationship with the fashion world. In the later part of the first decade of the 21st century, designers such as [[Alexander McQueen]],<ref name="cintra" /><ref name=grunenberg/><ref name=steele3>{{harvnb|Steele|Park|2008|p=3}}</ref> [[Anna Sui]],<ref>{{cite book |last=Bolton |first=Andrew |author-link=Andrew Bolton (curator) |date=2013 |title=Anna Sui |url= https://books.google.com/books?id=veh5m5QdWL8C&q=anna+sui |location=New York |publisher=Chronicle Books |pages=100–109 |isbn=978-1452128597 |via=Google Books}}</ref> [[Rick Owens]],<ref name=steele3/> [[Gareth Pugh]], [[Ann Demeulemeester]], [[Philipp Plein]], [[Hedi Slimane]], [[John Richmond (fashion designer)|John Richmond]], [[John Galliano]],<ref name="cintra" /><ref name=grunenberg/><ref name=steele3/> [[Olivier Theyskens]]<ref name=steele3/><ref name="lr"/> and [[Yohji Yamamoto]]<ref name=steele3/> brought elements of goth to runways.<ref name="cintra" /> This was described as "Haute Goth" by Cintra Wilson in the ''New York Times''.<ref name="cintra" />

[[Thierry Mugler]], [[Claude Montana]], [[Jean Paul Gaultier]]<ref name= lr/> and [[Christian Lacroix]] have also been associated with the fashion trend.<ref name="cintra" /><ref name=grunenberg>{{harvnb|Grunenberg|1997|p=173}}</ref> In Spring 2004, [[Riccardo Tisci]], Jean Paul Gaultier, [[Raf Simons]] and [[Stefano Pilati]] dressed their models as "glamorous ghouls dressed in form-fitting suits and coal-tinted cocktail dresses".<ref name=lr/> Swedish designer Helena Horstedt and jewelry artist Hanna Hedman also practice a goth aesthetic.<ref>Johanna Lenander, "Swede and Sour: Scandinavian Goth," ''New York Times: T Magazine'', 27 March 2009. [http://themoment.blogs.nytimes.com/2009/03/27/swede-and-sour-scandinavian-goth/?hpw] Access date: 29 March 2009.</ref>