Editing Vermicompost (section)

==Harvesting==
[[File:Worm.bin.jpg|right|thumb|Worms in a bin being harvested]]

Factors affecting the speed of composting include the climate and the method of composting. There are signs to look for to determine whether compost is finished. The finished compost would have an ambient temperature, dark color, and be as moist as a damp sponge. Towards the end of the process, bacteria slow down the rate of metabolizing food or stop completely. There is the possibility of some solid organic matter still being present in the compost at this point, but it could stay in and continue decomposing for the next couple of years unless removed. The compost should be allowed to cure after finished to allow acids to be removed over time so it becomes more neutral, which could take up to three months and results in the compost being more consistent in size. Elevating the maturing compost off the ground can prevent unwanted plant growth. It compost should consistently be slightly damp and should be aerated but does not need to be turned. The curing process can be done in a storage bin or on a tarp.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Smith |first1=Kelly |chapter=Maintaining a Compost Bin |pages=163–170 |chapter-url=https://books.google.com/books?id=hAQ60w2soC4C&pg=PA163 |title=How to Build, Maintain, and Use a Compost System: Secrets and Techniques You Need to Know to Grow the Best Vegetables |date=2011 |publisher=Atlantic Publishing Company |isbn=978-1-60138-354-9 }}</ref>

=== Methods ===
Vermicompost is ready for harvest when it contains few-to-no scraps of uneaten food or bedding.<ref name=":0" /> There are several methods of harvesting from small-scale systems: "dump and hand sort", "let the worms do the sorting", "alternate containers" and "divide and dump."<ref>Appelhof, pp. 79-86</ref> These differ on the amount of time and labor involved and whether the vermicomposter wants to save as many worms as possible from being trapped in the harvested compost.

The pyramid method of harvesting worm compost is commonly used in small-scale vermicomposting, and is considered the simplest method for single layer bins.<ref>{{Cite web|title = Harvesting - MMSB - Multi-Materials Stewardship Board|url = http://www.mmsb.nl.ca/composting/vermicomposting/harvesting/|website = MMSB - Multi-Materials Stewardship Board|access-date = 2016-02-21|archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20151028062058/http://www.mmsb.nl.ca/composting/vermicomposting/harvesting/|archive-date = 2015-10-28|url-status = dead}}</ref> In this process, compost is separated into large clumps, which is placed back into composting for further breakdown, and lighter compost, with which the rest of the process continues. This lighter mix is placed into small piles on a tarp under the sunlight. The worms instinctively burrow to the bottom of the pile. After a few minutes, the top of the pyramid is removed repeatedly, until the worms are again visible. This repeats until the mound is composed mostly of worms.

When harvesting the compost, it is possible to separate eggs and cocoons and return them to the bin, thereby ensuring new worms are hatched. Cocoons are small, lemon-shaped yellowish objects that can usually be seen with the naked eye.<ref>{{Cite web |url=https://vermontworms.com/tag/red-wiggler-compost-worm-eggs/ |title=Red-wiggler Compost Worm eggs |access-date=2018-03-18 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180318163515/https://vermontworms.com/tag/red-wiggler-compost-worm-eggs/ |archive-date=2018-03-18 |url-status=live }}</ref> The cocoons can hold up to 20 worms (though 2–3 is most common). Cocoons can lay dormant for as long as two years if conditions are not conducive for hatching.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://cals.arizona.edu/yavapai/anr/hort/byg/archive/redwormbiology.html|title=Red Worm Biology}}</ref>