Editing Fishing reel (section)

==== Baitcasting reel ====
<span id="Revolving-spool reel"></span><span id="Multiplying reel"></span>
[[File:Abu Garcia Ambassadeur baitcasting reel.jpg|thumb|An older design baitcasting reel – the [[ABU Garcia]] Ambassadeur]]
[[Image:Baitcaster.jpeg|thumb|A more modern baitcasting reel]]
The '''baitcasting reel''' or '''baitcaster''' is a multiplying reel like modified from the [[#Conventional reel|conventional reel]], but with a lighter spool and a higher, more forwardly positioned line guide to facilitate farther and smoother [[casting (fishing)|casting]], hence the name. The baitcasting reel is always mounted above the rod handle (of what is known as a "casting rod"), hence its other name given to it in New Zealand and Australia, the '''overhead reel'''. The line is stored on a [[bearing (mechanical)|bearing]]-supported, more freely revolving spool that is geared so that a single revolution of the crank handle results in multiple (usually 4× or more) revolutions of the spool.<ref name="HEN"/> The baitcasting reel design will operate well with a wide variety of fishing lines ranging from [[braided fishing line|braided multifilament]], heat-fused "[[multifilament fishing line|Superline]]s", copolymer, [[fluorocarbon]] and nylon [[monofilament fishing line|monofilament]]s (''see'' [[Fishing line]]). Most baitcasting reels can also easily be palmed or thumbed to increase the drag, set the hook, or to accurately halt the lure at a given point in the cast.

The baitcasting reel dates from at least the mid-17th century, but came into wide use by amateur anglers during the 1870s.<ref name="HEN"/> Early baitcasting reels were often constructed with [[brass]] or iron gears, with casings and spools made of brass, [[Nickel silver|German silver]] or [[hard rubber]].<ref name="HEN"/> Featuring multiplying gears ranging from 2:1 to 4:1, these early reels had no drag mechanism, and anglers used their thumb on the spool to provide resistance to runs by a fish.<ref name="HEN"/> As early as the 1870s, some models used bearings to mount the spool; as the free-spinning spool tended to cause backlash with strong pulls on the line, manufacturers soon incorporated a clicking [[pawl]] mechanism.<ref name="HEN"/> This "clicker" mechanism was never intended as a drag, but used solely to keep the spool from overrunning, much like a fly reel.<ref name="HEN"/> Baitcasting reel users soon discovered that the clicking noise of the pawls provided valuable audible warning that a fish had taken the live bait, allowing the rod and reel to be left in a rod holder while awaiting a strike by a fish.<ref name="HEN"/>

Most fishing reels are suspended from the bottom side of the rod, since this position doesn't require wrist strength to overcome gravity while enabling the angler to cast and retrieve without changing hands.<ref name="HEN"/> The baitcasting reel's unusual mounting position atop the rod is an accident of history.<ref name="HEN"/> Baitcasting reels were originally designed to be cast when positioned atop the rod, then rotated upside-down to operate the crank handle while playing a fish or retrieving line.<ref name="HEN"/> However, in practice most anglers preferred to keep the reel atop the rod for both cast and retrieve by simply transferring the rod to the left hand for the retrieve, then reverse-winding the crank handle.<ref name="HEN"/> Because of this preference, mounting the crank handle on the right side of a bait casting reel (with standard clockwise crank handle rotation) has become customary, though models with left-hand retrieve have gained in popularity in recent years thanks to user familiarity with the spinning reel.<ref name="SCH">Schultz, Ken, ''Schultz's Essentials of Fishing: The Only Guide You Need to Catch Freshwater and Saltwater Fish'', John Wiley & Sons, {{ISBN|9780470444313}} (2010) pp. 147–150,154.</ref>

Many of today's baitcasting reels are constructed using [[aluminium alloy]], [[stainless steel]], [[wikt:synthetic|synthetic]] [[composite material|composite]]s such as [[fiberglass-reinforced plastic]] or [[carbon fiber]], alone or in combination; newer but more expensive materials such as [[titanium alloy|titanium]] and [[magnesium alloy]]s can also be found occasionally. They call for a rod that has a trigger finger hook located in the handle area. They typically include a level-wind mechanism to prevent the line from being trapped under itself on the spool during rewind and interfering with subsequent casts. Many are also fitted with anti-reverse handles and drags designed to slow runs by large and powerful game fish. Because the baitcasting reel uses the weight and momentum of the lure to pull the line from the rotating spool, it normally requires lures weighing 1/4 oz. or more to cast a significant distance.<ref name="PAR">Parsons, P. Allen, ''Complete Book of Fresh Water Fishing'', New York, Harper & Row Inc., {{ISBN|0060715006}}, 9780060715007 (1963), pp. 71–73</ref> Recent developments have seen baitcasting reels with gear ratios as high as 7.1/1. Higher gear ratios allow much faster retrieval of line, but sacrifice some amount of strength in exchange, since the additional gear teeth required reduces torque as well as the strength of the gear train.<ref name="SCH"/> This could be a factor when fighting a large and powerful fish.<ref name="SCH"/>

Two variations of the revolving spool bait casting reel are the conventional [[surf fishing]] reel and the big game reel. These are very large and robust fishing reels, designed and built for heavy saltwater species such as tuna, marlin, sailfish and sharks. Surf fishing reels are normally mounted to long, two-handed rods; these reels frequently omit level-wind and braking mechanisms to achieve extremely long casting distances. Big game reels are not designed for casting, but are instead used for [[trolling (fishing)|trolling]] or fishing set baits and lures; they are ideal for fighting large and heavy fish off a pier or boat. These reels normally use sophisticated star or lever drags to play out huge saltwater gamefish.
 
;Baitcasting Reel Operation
To cast a baitcasting rod and reel, the reel is turned on its side, the "free spool" feature engaged, and the thumb placed on the spool to hold the lure in position. The cast is performed by snapping the rod backward to the 2 o'clock position, then casting it forward in a smooth motion, allowing the lure to pull the line from the reel. The thumb is used to contact the line, moderating the revolutions of the spool and braking the lure when it reaches the desired aiming point. Though modern centrifugal and/or magnetic braking systems help to control backlash, using a bait casting reel still requires practice and a certain amount of finesse on the part of the fisherman for best results.

;Advantages of Baitcasting Reels
While spincasting and spinning reels are easier to operate because fishing line leaves the spool freely during a cast, baitcasting reels have the potential to overrun: a casting issue in which the reel's spool does not spin at a rate equal to the speed of fishing line leaving the reel. Professional fishermen, however, prefer baitcasters because baitcasting reels allow anglers more control over their casts. Since a baitcaster's spool spins along with the fishing line leaving the reel, a simple flick of the thumb can stop a cast early or slow a lure while it is still in the air. This grants anglers such as bass fishermen more accuracy in their casts. Furthermore, a baitcaster's design allows a fisherman to make casts at a faster rate, even with heavier baits.

;Disadvantages Of Baitcasting Reels
* Effective use of baitcasting reels requires prior experience and a developed skill set, thus it is unsuitable for beginners.
* There are higher risks of getting backlashes during the cast without proper techniques.
* One must know about spool tension adjustment for different spool sizes.
* Unsuitable for light lures.
* More costly than spinning reels.