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=== Waist coverings === A waist covering is generally worn as part of a black tie ensemble. Either a low cut waistcoat or cummerbund may be worn, but never both at the same time. Although the English authority [[Debrett's]] consider that wearing a waistcoat is smart, they no longer consider either waist covering to be essential.<ref name=":6">{{Cite book|title=Debrett's Handbook|last=Wyse|first=Elizabeth|publisher=Debrett's Limited|year=2015|isbn=978-0-9929348-1-1|location=London, United Kingdom|pages=188}}</ref> The American authority, [[The Emily Post Institute]], considers them to be an essential component of proper black tie attire.<ref name=":5" /> Waist coverings are not matched to wedding theme colours.<ref name=":3">{{Cite web |url=http://www.blacktieguide.com/Supplemental/Weddings.htm |website=Black Tie Guide |title=Supplemental: Formal Weddings |access-date=29 May 2016 |archive-date=5 June 2016 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160605191225/http://www.blacktieguide.com/Supplemental/Weddings.htm |url-status=dead }}</ref> [[File:Black Tie Waistcoat Gold and Black Studs.jpg|alt=Black tie waistcoat with studs|left|thumb|upright=0.6|Waistcoat with shawl collar, closed with studs]] ==== Waistcoat ==== A low cut waistcoat should be worn when wearing a single-breasted coat.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.debretts.co.uk/etiquette/special-occasions/dress-codes/black-tie.aspx |title=Special occasions β dress codes β black-tie |publisher=Debretts |access-date=23 December 2011 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120119162643/http://www.debretts.co.uk/etiquette/special-occasions/dress-codes/black-tie.aspx |archive-date=19 January 2012 |url-status=dead}}</ref> The waistcoat plays an important part in black tie's refined minimalism by helping to conceal its working parts by discreetly covering the trousers' exposed waistband and the shirt bosom's bottom edge. Waistcoats come in the 'V' or rarer 'U' shape, in backless or fully backed versions, double- or single-breasted, with or without lapels. Single-breasted styles typically have three buttons, and double-breasted ones three or four rows. Before World War II, while black tie was still gaining acceptance, men would wear a white waistcoat, along with other details now associated primarily with white tie, such as stiff fronted shirts. However, this style, though increasingly viewed as an affectation,{{by whom|date=January 2024}}{{citation needed|date=January 2024}} is still acceptable in the United States. The waistcoat may be made from either the same fabric as the dinner jacket, as is traditional, or the same silk as the jacket's lapels, which is more popular. When a waistcoat has lapels, they are faced in the same silk as those of the jacket; in this case it is considered more refined if the body is made from the same fabric as the jacket. The buttons may be self-faced or covered in the same silk as the lapels. Vintage waistcoats were sometimes closed with studs made from [[onyx]] or [[Nacre|mother-of-pearl]], which were often surrounded by a setting of silver or [[gold]]. A waistcoat is never worn with a double-breasted jacket. Since this style of jacket is never unbuttoned, the waist of the trousers is never exposed, and therefore does not need to be covered,<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.blacktieguide.com/Classic/Classic_Waist.htm |title=Classic Black Tie: Waist Coverings |website=Black Tie Guide |access-date=1 April 2011}}</ref> though before World War II an edge of the waistcoat was often shown between the jacket and shirt. ==== Cummerbund ==== [[File:Cummerbund1950.JPG|thumb|Black [[Ottoman (textile)|ottoman]] silk cummerbund]] A cummerbund may be worn with a dinner jacket in lieu of a waistcoat and, although it is considered slightly less formal, it is equally correct. It looks especially well with a shawl collar dinner jacket but may be worn in conjunction with peak lapels. The material of the cummerbund should be silk satin, grosgrain, also called faille, or [[barathea]] to match that of the bow tie. It features upward-facing folds, which were originally used to store theatre or opera tickets, and are now considered to be more decorative than functional. Just like the waistcoat, cummerbunds are not worn with a double-breasted jacket.<ref>{{cite book |last=Clayton |first=Nicholas |date=10 April 2025 |title=A Butler's Guide to Gentlemen's Grooming |url=https://www.rizzoliusa.com/book/9781849943703/ |publisher=Pavilion Books |isbn=9781849944144 }}</ref> As the cummerbund is seen as an extension of the trousers, traditionally it is the same colour, i.e. black.<ref>{{cite book |last=von Adlerstein |first=Marion |date=2 April 2007 |title=The Penguin Book Of Etiquette |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=ZwnGDuQIad8C&pg=PT204 |publisher=Penguin UK |isbn=9780857967800}}</ref> However, the ''Black Tie Guide'' endorses deep and rich colours as a tasteful way to introduce some colour into an outfit that is otherwise [[Monochrome|monochromatic]].<ref name=":4">{{Cite web|url=http://www.blacktieguide.com/Classic/Classic_Alternatives.htm |title=Black Tie Guide {{!}} Classic Alternatives |website=Black Tie Guide |access-date=29 May 2016}}</ref> Bright colours, such as those often worn by members of wedding parties, should be avoided<ref name=":3" /> and the bow tie must remain black in any case. Some higher quality models feature a hidden pocket and an elastic loop to fasten to the trousers.
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