Editing Sushi (section)

==History==
{{main|History of sushi}}
[[File:Barack Obama and Shinzo Abe at Sukyabashi Jiro April 2014.jpg|thumb|President [[Barack Obama]] and Prime Minister [[Shinzo Abe]] at [[Sukiyabashi Jiro]]]]

=== ''Narezushi'' ===
A dish known as {{nihongo3|"matured fish"|馴れ寿司, 熟寿司|narezushi}}, stored in fermented rice for possibly months at a time, has been cited as one of the early influences for the Japanese practice of applying rice on raw fish. The fish was fermented with rice vinegar, salt, and rice, after which the rice was discarded.<ref name="worldcat1993">{{Cite book|last1=Lee|first1=Cherl-Ho|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/395550059|title=Fish fermentation technology|last2=Steinkraus|first2=Keith H|last3=Reilly|first3=P.J. Alan|date=1993|publisher=United Nation University Press|location=Tokyo|language=English|oclc=395550059|access-date=2021-06-17|archive-date=2021-01-13|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210113054410/https://www.worldcat.org/title/fish-fermentation-technology/oclc/395550059%26referer%3Dbrief_results|url-status=live}}</ref> {{transliteration|ja|Narezushi}} is also called '''{{transliteration|ja|honnare}}''', meaning "fully fermented", as opposed to {{transliteration|ja|namanare}}, meaning "partially fermented", a type of sushi that appeared in the [[Muromachi period]].<ref name="jst140223"/>

Fermented fish using rice, such as {{transliteration|ja|narezushi}}, originated in [[Southeast Asia]] where it was made to preserve [[freshwater fish]], possibly in the [[Mekong River]] basin, which is now [[Laos]], [[Cambodia]], [[Thailand]], and [[Vietnam]], and in the [[Irrawaddy River]] basin, which is now [[Myanmar]].<ref name="jst140223" /> The first mention of a {{transliteration|ja|narezushi}}-like food is in a Chinese dictionary thought to be from the 4th century, in this instance referring to salted fish that had been placed in cooked or steamed rice, which caused it to undergo a fermentation process via [[lactic acid]].<ref>{{Cite book |last=Mouritsen |first=O. G. |title=SUSHI food for the eye, the body & the soul |publisher=[[Springer Publishing Company|Springer]] |year=2009 |isbn=978-1-4419-0617-5 |edition=2nd |location=Boston |pages=15 |language=en |doi=10.1007/978-1-4419-0618-2|bibcode=2009sfeb.book.....M }}</ref><ref name="sanchez2008" /> Fermentation methods following similar logic in other Asian rice cultures include {{lang|fil|[[burong isda]]}}, {{lang|fil|[[balao-balao]]}}, and {{lang|mdh|[[tinapayan]]}} of the [[Philippines]]; ''[[pekasam]]'' of [[Indonesia]] and [[Malaysia]]; ''[[padaek]]'' ({{lang|lo|ປາແດກ}}) of [[Laos]]; {{transliteration|th|[[pla ra]]}} ({{lang|th|ปลาร้า}}) of Thailand; ''[[sikhae]]'' ({{lang|ko|식해}}) of [[Korea]]; and ''Mắm bò hóc'' or ''cá chua'' of Vietnam.<ref name="sanchez2008">{{cite book|first1=Priscilla C.|last1= Sanchez|title =Philippine Fermented Foods: Principles and Technology|chapter =Lactic-Acid-Fermented Fish and Fishery Products|publisher =University of the Philippines Press|year =2008|page=264|isbn = 9789715425544|chapter-url =https://books.google.com/books?id=smfr-KYgtWkC&pg=PT10}}</ref><ref name="worldcat1993"/><ref name="The Guardian, UK- 'Chopsticks at dawn for a sushi showdown'">{{cite news|last=Hill|first=Amelia|title=Chopsticks at dawn for a sushi showdown|url=http://observer.guardian.co.uk/uk_news/story/0,,2185313,00.html|newspaper=The Guardian|access-date=25 September 2011|location=London|date=2007-10-08|archive-date=2007-12-17|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20071217051859/http://observer.guardian.co.uk/uk_news/story/0,,2185313,00.html|url-status=live}}</ref><ref>{{cite journal |last1=Guerra |first1=M.I. |title=Studies on tinapayan, an indigenous fish ferment in Central Mindanao (Philippines) |journal=AGRIS |date=1994 |volume=1 |issue=2 |pages=364–365}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |date=2024-05-04 |title=Unveiling the origins of sushi: a journey through Vietnam |url=https://tuoitrenews.vn/news/ttnewsstyle/20240504/unveiling-the-origins-of-sushi-a-journey-through-vietnam/79556.html |access-date=2024-05-10 |website=Tuoi Tre News}}</ref>{{overcite|date=October 2024}}

The [[lacto-fermentation]] of the rice prevents the fish from spoiling. When wet-field rice cultivation was introduced during the [[Yayoi period]], lakes and rivers would flood during the rainy season and fish would get caught in the rice paddy fields. Pickling was a way to preserve the excess fish and guarantee food for the following months, and {{transliteration|ja|narezushi}} became an important source of protein for Japanese consumers. The term ''sushi'' literally means "sour-tasting", as the overall dish has a sour and [[umami]] or savory taste. The term comes from an [[Japanese adjectives#Archaic forms|antiquated]] {{lang|ja|し}} {{transliteration|ja|shi}} terminal-form conjugation, no longer used in other contexts, of the [[Japanese adjectives|adjectival verb]] {{nihongo3|"to be sour"|酸い|sui}},<ref>1988, 国語大辞典（新装版） (Kokugo Dai Jiten, Revised Edition) (in Japanese), Tōkyō: Shogakukan</ref> resulting in the term {{nihongo||酸し|sushi}}.<ref>{{cite journal | author1 = Kouji Itou | author2 = Shinsuke Kobayashi | author3 = Tooru Ooizumi | author4 = Yoshiaki Akahane | year = 2006 | title = Changes of proximate composition and extractive components in narezushi, a fermented mackerel product, during processing | journal = Fisheries Science | volume = 72 | issue = 6 | pages = 1269–1276 | doi = 10.1111/j.1444-2906.2006.01285.x| bibcode = 2006FisSc..72.1269I | s2cid = 24004124 |issn=0919-9268 }}</ref> {{transliteration|ja|Narezushi}} still exists as a regional specialty, notably as {{transliteration|ja|funa-zushi}} from [[Shiga Prefecture]].<ref name="tsukiji">{{cite book |last1=Bestor |first1=Theodore C. |author-link = Theodore C. Bestor |title=[[Tsukiji: The Fish Market at the Center of the World]] |page=141 |isbn=9780520923584|date=2004-07-13 |publisher=University of California Press }}</ref>

In the {{nihongo|[[Yōrō Code]]|養老律令|Yōrō-ritsuryō}} of 718, the characters for "鮨" and "鮓" are written as a tribute to the Japanese imperial court, and although there are various theories as to what exactly this food was, it is possible that it referred to {{transliteration|ja|narezushi}}.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://style.nikkei.com/article/DGXMZO30379530R10C18A5000000?page=2|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201028122209/https://style.nikkei.com/article/DGXMZO30379530R10C18A5000000?page=2|script-title=ja:握りずし 始まりは江戸っ子のホットドッグスタンド|language=ja|publisher=[[Nikkei, Inc.]]|date=9 June 2018|archive-date=28 October 2020|access-date=4 April 2023}}</ref>

=== ''Namanare'' ===
Until the early 19th century, sushi slowly changed with Japanese cuisine. The Japanese started eating three meals a day, rice was boiled instead of steamed, and of large importance was the development of [[rice vinegar]].<ref name="Moritzen">{{cite book|last=Mpritzen|first=Ole G.|title=Sushi: Food for the Eye, the Body and the Soul|year=2009|publisher=Springer Science-Business Media|page=15}}</ref>

During the [[Muromachi period]] (1336–1573), the Japanese invented a style of sushi called {{transliteration|ja|namanare}} or '''{{transliteration|ja|namanari}}''' ({{lang|ja|生成、なまなれ、なまなり}}), which means "partially fermented". The fermentation period of {{transliteration|ja|namanare}} was shorter than that of the earlier {{transliteration|ja|narezushi}}, and the rice used for fermentation was also eaten with the fish. In other words, with the invention of {{transliteration|ja|namanare}}, sushi changed from a preserved fish food to a food where fish and rice are eaten together. After the appearance of {{transliteration|ja|namanare}}, [[sake]] and sake lees were used to shorten fermentation, and vinegar was used in the [[Edo period]].<ref name="jst140223">{{cite web|url=https://www.jstage.jst.go.jp/article/jisdh/31/4/31_201/_pdf/-char/ja|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230214220815/https://www.jstage.jst.go.jp/article/jisdh/31/4/31_201/_pdf/-char/ja|title=The evolution of sushi and the power of vinegar|pages=201, 202|author=Hirofumi Akano|publisher=[[Japan Science and Technology Agency]]|archive-date=14 February 2023|access-date=4 April 2023}}</ref>

=== ''Hayazushi'' ===
[[File:Hiroshige Bowl of Sushi.jpg|thumb|right|''Bowl of Sushi'' by [[Hiroshige]] (1797–1858). ''[[#Makizushi|Makizushi]]'' with rice rolled in ''[[tamagoyaki]]'' (front) and ''[[#Nigirizushi|nigirizushi]]'' with shrimp (back).]]

During the Edo period (1603–1867), a third type of sushi, {{nihongo3|"fast sushi"|早寿司、早ずし|haya-zushi}}, was developed. {{transliteration|ja|Haya-zushi}} differed from earlier sushi in that instead of lactic fermentation of rice, vinegar, a fermented food, was mixed with rice to give it a sour taste so that it could be eaten at the same time as the fish. Previously, sushi had evolved with a focus on shortening the fermentation period, but with the invention of {{transliteration|ja|haya-zushi}}, which is simply mixed with vinegar, the fermentation process was eliminated and sushi became a fast food. Many types of sushi known in the world today, such as {{nihongo3|"scattered sushi"|散らし寿司|[[#Chirashizushi|chirashizushi]]}}, {{nihongo3|"[[Inari Ōkami|Inari]] sushi"|稲荷寿司|[[#Inarizushi|inarizushi]]}}, {{nihongo3|"rolled sushi"|巻寿司|[[#Makizushi|makizushi]]}}, and {{nihongo3|"hand-pressed sushi"|握り寿司|[[#Nigirizushi|nigirizushi]]}}, were invented during this period, and they are a type of {{transliteration|ja|haya-zushi}}. Each region utilizes local flavors to produce a variety of sushi that has been passed down for many generations. A 1689 cookbook describes {{transliteration|ja|haya-zushi}}, and a 1728 cookbook describes pouring vinegar over {{nihongo3|"box sushi"|箱ずし|[[#Oshizushi|hako-zushi]]}} (square sushi made by filling a wooden frame with rice).<ref name="jst140223"/>

Today's style of {{nihongo3|"hand-pressed sushi"|握り寿司|nigirizushi}}, consisting of an oblong mound of rice with a slice of fish draped over it, became popular in [[Edo]] (contemporary Tokyo) in the 1820s or 1830s. One common story of the origin of {{transliteration|ja|nigirizushi}} is of the chef [[Hanaya Yohei]] (1799–1858), who invented or perfected the technique in 1824 at his shop in [[Ryōgoku]].<ref name="tsukiji"/> The {{transliteration|ja|nigirizushi}} of this period was somewhat different from modern {{transliteration|ja|nigirizushi}}. The sushi rice of this period was about three times the size of today's {{transliteration|ja|nigirizushi}}. The amount of vinegar used was half that of today's sushi, and the type of vinegar developed during this period, called {{nihongo3|"red vinegar"|赤酢|aka-su}}, was made by fermenting sake lees. They also used slightly more salt than in modern times instead of sugar. Seafood served over rice was prepared in a variety of ways. This red vinegar was developed by Nakano Matazaemon (中野 又佐衛門), who is the founder of [[Mizkan]], a company that still develops and sells vinegar and other seasonings today.<ref name="jst140223"/>

The dish was originally termed {{transliteration|ja|Edomae zushi}} as it used freshly caught fish from the {{transliteration|ja|Edo-mae}} (Edo or [[Tokyo Bay]]); the term {{transliteration|ja|Edomae nigirizushi}} is still used today as a by-word for quality sushi, regardless of its ingredients' origins.<ref>{{cite book |title=The Connoisseur's Guide to Sushi |first=Dave |last=Lowry |publisher=ReadHowYouWant.com |year=2010 |isbn=978-1458764140 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=0ut9nOwsFegC&q=Edomae&pg=PR17 |page=xvii |quote=A nugget of rice was seasoned with vinegar and topped by a sliver of seafood fresh from the bay that was only a few blocks away. That is why a synonym for nigiri sushi is Edomae sushi: Edomae is "in front of Edo," i.e., the bay. |access-date=2020-11-01 |archive-date=2021-06-17 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210617105707/https://books.google.com/books?id=0ut9nOwsFegC&q=Edomae&pg=PR17 |url-status=live }}</ref><ref>{{cite book |title=Sushi: Food for the Eye, the Body and the Soul |first=Ole G. |last=Mouritsen |publisher=Springer |year=2009 |isbn=978-1441906182 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=RJxuV-0eT4UC&q=%22edomae%22&pg=PA17 |quote=Edomae-zushi or nigiri-zushi? Nigiri-zushi is also known as Edomae-zushi. Edomae refers to the small bay in Edo in front of the old palace that stood on the same site as the present-day imperial precinct in Tokyo. Fresh fish and shellfish caught in the bay were used locally to make sushi, known as Edomae-zushi. It has, however, been many years since these waters have been a source of seafood. Now the expression Edomae-zushi is employed as a synonym for high-quality nigiri-zushi. |page=17 |access-date=2020-11-01 |archive-date=2021-06-17 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210617105637/https://books.google.com/books?id=RJxuV-0eT4UC&q=%22edomae%22&pg=PA17 |url-status=live }}</ref>

=== Conveyor belt sushi ===
[[File:US Navy 090813-N-0413R-250 Sailors and their families enjoy sushi while visiting the historic city of Kamakura, Japan during orientation.jpg|thumb|[[Conveyor belt sushi]] restaurant in [[Kamakura]]]]

In 1958, Yoshiaki Shiraishi opened the first {{nihongo|[[conveyor belt sushi]] restaurant|回転寿司|kaiten-zushi}} named "[[Genroku culture|Genroku]] Zushi" in [[Higashi-Osaka]]. In conveyor belt sushi restaurants, conveyor belts installed along tables and counters in the restaurant transport plates of sushi to customers. Generally, the bill is based on the number of plates, with different colored plates representing the price of the sushi.<ref name="magnier">{{cite news|last1=Magnier|first1=Mark|title=Yoshiaki Shiraishi; Founded Conveyor Belt Sushi Industry|url=https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-2001-sep-02-me-41354-story.html|access-date=4 February 2016|work=Los Angeles Times|date=2001-09-02}}</ref><ref name="walker14224">{{cite web|url=https://sushiwalker.com/feature/82425/|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20240214201209/https://sushiwalker.com/feature/82425/|script-title=ja:回転寿司の歴史は半世紀超！回転寿司チェーン、それぞれの特徴は？|language=ja|publisher=Sushi walker|date=February 26, 2023|archive-date=14 February 2024|access-date=14 February 2024 |work=寿司ウォーカー }}</ref><ref name="genroku11223">{{cite web|url=http://www.mawaru-genrokuzusi.co.jp/history/|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20231201030735/http://www.mawaru-genrokuzusi.co.jp/history/|script-title=ja:回転寿司の歴史|language=ja|publisher=Genroku Zushi|archive-date=1 December 2023|access-date=14 February 2024}}</ref>

When Genroku Sushi opened a restaurant at the [[Expo '70|Japan World Exposition, Osaka, 1970]], it won an award at the expo, and conveyor belt sushi restaurants became known throughout Japan. In 1973, an automatic tea dispenser was developed, which is now used in conveyor belt sushi restaurants today. When the patent for conveyor belt sushi restaurants expired, a chain of conveyor belt sushi restaurants was established, spreading conveyor belt sushi throughout Japan and further popularizing and lowering the price of sushi. By 2021, the conveyor belt sushi market had grown to 700 billion yen and spread outside Japan.<ref name="magnier"/><ref name="walker14224"/><ref name="genroku11223"/>

=== Sushi in English===
The earliest written mention of ''sushi'' in English described in the ''[[Oxford English Dictionary]]'' is in an 1893 book, ''A Japanese Interior'', where it mentions sushi as "a roll of cold rice with fish, sea-weed, or some other flavoring".<ref>"Sushi," ''Oxford English Dictionary'', Second edition, 1989; online version December 2011. Accessed 23 December 2011.</ref><ref>{{cite book|url=https://archive.org/details/ajapaneseinteri02bacogoog|title= A Japanese interior |first= Alice Mabel |last=Bacon |publisher= Houghton, Mifflin and Company|year= 1893|page=[https://archive.org/details/ajapaneseinteri02bacogoog/page/n293 271]|quote=p. 271: "Sushi, a roll of cold rice with fish, sea-weed, or some other flavoring" p. 181: "While we were waiting for my lord and my lady to appear, domestics served us with tea and sushi or rice sandwiches, and the year-old baby was brought in and exhibited." p. 180: "All the sushi that I had been unable to eat were sent out to my ''kuruma'', neatly done in white paper."}}</ref> There is an earlier mention of sushi in [[James Curtis Hepburn|James Hepburn]]'s Japanese–English dictionary from 1873,<ref>James Curtis Hepburn, ''Japanese–English and English–Japanese dictionary'', Publisher: Randolph, 1873, 536 pages ([https://archive.org/details/japaneseenglish01hepbgoog/page/n278 <!-- quote=sushi. --> page 262])</ref> and an 1879 article on Japanese cookery in the journal ''[[Notes and Queries]]''.<ref>W. H. Patterson, ''Japanese Cookery'', "Notes and Queries," Publisher: Oxford University Press, 1879. ([https://books.google.com/books?id=2kcAAAAAYAAJ&q=sushi&pg=PA263 p.263] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160202024221/https://books.google.com/books?id=2kcAAAAAYAAJ&dq=sushi%20rice&pg=PA263#v=onepage&q=sushi&f=false |date=2016-02-02 }})</ref> Despite common misconception among English speakers, sushi does not mean "raw seafood."<ref>{{cite web |last1=Mikkelson |first1=Barbara |title=Sushi Definition |url=https://www.snopes.com/fact-check/if-you-knew-sushi/ |website=[[Snopes]] |date=October 5, 2002 |access-date=June 19, 2024}}</ref>