Editing Spanish cuisine (section)

== History ==
{{See also|History of Spain}}

=== Antiquity ===
<!--[[File:Mosaico de Las Tiendas (MNAR Mérida) 01.jpg|thumb|right|Roman mosaic found near [[Mérida, Spain|Mérida]] depicting a boar hunt]]-->
[[File:Tríada-triología mediterránea bollullos par del condado.jpg|thumb|right|Growing of the Mediterranean triad (wheat, grapes, olives) in the province of Huelva]]
Authors such as [[Strabo]] wrote about the aboriginal people of Spain using nuts and acorns as staple foods.<ref>{{cite web|last=Medievalists.net|date=2020-10-08|title=Acorns in the Middle Ages|url=https://www.medievalists.net/2020/10/acorns-middle-ages/|access-date=2021-02-01|website=Medievalists.net|language=en-US}}</ref> The extension of vineyards along the Mediterranean seemed to be due to the colonization of Greeks and [[Phoenicia]]ns, who also introduced the production of olive oil. Spain became the largest producer of olive oil in the world. The growing of crops of the so-called [[:es:Trilogía mediterránea|''tríada mediterránea'']] (the "Mediterranean triad": [[wheat]], [[vitis|grapes]], and [[olives]]) underpinned the staple meal products for the inhabitants of the south of the Iberian Peninsula during the Roman Era ([[bread]], [[wine]] and [[oil]]).<ref>{{Cite journal|title=La tríada mediterránea en las acuñaciones monetarias del sur peninsular|first1=Ildefonso David|last1=Ruiz López|first2=Carmen|last2=Ramírez Ruiz|journal=Iberian|issn=2174-5633|issue=4|year=2012|url=https://dialnet.unirioja.es/descarga/articulo/4000751.pdf|page=57}}</ref>

=== Middle Ages ===
The [[Visigoths]]' limited but lasting contributions to Spanish cuisine included the spread of the consumption of [[Fermented milk products|fermented milk]] and the preference for avoiding mixing water and wine.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://racve.es/publicaciones/gastronomia-espanola/|publisher=Real Academia de Ciencias Veterinarias de España|title=Gastronomía española|first=Ismael|last=Díaz Yubero|date=1999}}</ref>

[[Rice]] was possibly introduced for the first time by [[Byzantine Empire|Byzantines]] in the Iberian Peninsula by the 6th century. After the [[Umayyad conquest of Hispania|Muslim conquest of the Iberian peninsula]] in the 8th century, Arabs expanded rice cultivation,<ref>{{Cite book|chapter=La alimentación en Bizancio|first1=Antoni|last1=Pons Biescas|first2=Josep A.|last2=Tur Marí|chapter-url=https://books.google.com/books?id=7StHfcrJBTcC&pg=PA180|page=180|title=La alimentación y la nutrición a través de la historia|publisher=Editorial Glosa|location=Barcelona|editor-first=Jordi|year=2005|editor-last=Salas-Salvadó|editor-first2=Pilar|editor-last2=García-Lorda|editor-first3=José M.ª|editor-last3=Sánchez Ripollés|isbn=84-7429-257-3}}</ref> bringing new irrigation techniques originally from the Indian subcontinent that also allowed for the cultivation of crops such as [[sugar cane]], [[watermelon]], [[lemon]] and [[Orange (fruit)|orange]]s.<ref>{{Cite journal|title=La influencia musulmana en la cultura hispano-cristiana medieval|first=Luis Teófilo|last=Gil Cuadrado|journal=Anaquel de Estudios Árabes|issn=1130-3964|volume=13|year=2002<!--|pages=37–66-->|url=https://revistas.ucm.es/index.php/ANQE/article/view/ANQE0202110037A/3743|page=58}}</ref> Other ingredients possibly introduced in the Iberian Peninsula during the Hispano-Muslim period include [[sorghum]], [[spinach]], [[eggplant]], [[peach]], [[apricot]] and [[saffron]].<ref>{{Cite book |last=Nadeau |first=Carolyn A. |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=SLyqCwAAQBAJ&dq=ingredients+introduced+in+the+Iberian+Peninsula+during+the+Hispano-Muslim+period&pg=PA112 |title=Food Matters: Alonso Quijano's Diet and the Discourse of Food in Early Modern Spain |date=2016-01-01 |publisher=University of Toronto Press |isbn=978-1-4426-3730-6 |language=en}}</ref> The most famous Spanish dish, [[paella]], uses two ingredients that were probably popularized during the [[Al-Andalus]] period: rice and saffron.<ref name="auto1">{{Cite web|url=https://adhc.lib.ua.edu/globalfoodways/can-i-have-some-moor-a-look-at-moorish-influence-on-spanish-cuisine/|title=Can I have Some Moor? A Look at Moorish Influence on Spanish Cuisine - Global Foodways|website=Adhc.lib.ua.edu|access-date=10 March 2022}}</ref>

[[File:Llibre-dels-Feyts-XXVIIr (cropped) Sopar de Tarragona.jpg|thumb|right|Illustration of the "supper of Tarragona" of [[James I of Aragon]] in an edition of the ''[[Llibre dels fets]]'', published in 1343]]
[[Moors]] also developed the basis for the art of [[pastry]]-making and introduced ''[[escabeche]]'',<ref name=yubero>{{cite web|publisher=[[Biblioteca Nacional de España]]|title=La evolución de la alimentación y la gastronomía en España|first=Ismael|last=Díaz Yubero|pages=121–154|url=http://www.bne.es/es/Micrositios/Exposiciones/Cocina/documentos/cocina_estudios_4.pdf}}</ref> a food preservation technique relying on vinegar. Dishes like ''[[Ajoblanco|ajo blanco]]'', ''[[:es:alboronía|alboronía]]'',<ref>{{cite web|url=https://dle.rae.es/alboronía|title=alboronía &#124; Diccionario de la lengua española – Edición del Tricentenario|website=Real Academia Española}}</ref> ''[[alajú]]'',<ref>{{cite web|url=https://dle.rae.es/alajú|title=alajú &#124; Diccionario de la lengua española – Edición del Tricentenario|website=Real Academia Española}}</ref> ''[[hallulla]]'',<ref>{{cite web|url=https://dle.rae.es/hallulla|title=hallulla &#124; Diccionario de la lengua española – Edición del Tricentenario|website=Real Academia Española}}</ref> ''[[:es:albóndiga|albóndigas]]'',<ref>{{cite web|url=https://dle.rae.es/albóndiga|title=albóndiga &#124; Diccionario de la lengua española – Edición del Tricentenario|website=Real Academia Española}}</ref> ''[[mojama]]'',<ref>{{cite web|url=https://dle.rae.es/almojama|title=almojama &#124; Diccionario de la lengua española – Edición del Tricentenario|website=Real Academia Española}}</ref> ''[[arrope]]'',<ref>{{cite web|url=https://dle.rae.es/arrope|title=arrope &#124; Diccionario de la lengua española – Edición del Tricentenario|website=Real Academia Española}}</ref> were some of the many legacies of [[Moorish]] cuisine.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.bne.es/es/Micrositios/Exposiciones/Cocina/documentos/cocina_estudios_4.pdf |title=Cocinas |website= www.bne.es|access-date=2020-08-17}}</ref><ref name="auto1"/><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.spanish-food.org/recetas-cocina-espanola/historia-cocina-espanola-influencia-arabe.html|title=Influencia árabe &#124; Cocina española|website=www.spanish-food.org}}</ref> Although Muslim religion did not allow alcoholic drinks, the consumption of wine was widespread as the Qur'anic precepts never got to overrule the preexisting traditions.<ref>{{Cite book|chapter-url=https://digital.csic.es/bitstream/10261/26078/1/Marin_E13.pdf|chapter=En los márgenes de la ley: el consumo de alcohol en al Andalus|title=Estudios onomástico-biográficos de al Andalus (Identidades marginales) XIII|editor-first=Cristina de la|editor-last=Puente|year=2003|last=Marín|first=Manuela|pages=273–274}}</ref> There are many accounts of the "drinking chats" of [[Abd al-Rahman II]], [[Abd al-Rahman III]] and [[Almanzor]].{{Sfn|Marín|2003|p=286}}

Observing the ''[[kashrut]]'' regulations, Jews and ''[[Converso|judaizantes]]'' opted for blood-drained meat without fat, outright rejecting bacon.<ref>{{Cite journal|page=24|last=Cantera Montenegro |year=2003 |url=http://revistas.uned.es/index.php/ETFIII/article/view/3689/3546 |volume=16 |title=La carne y el pescado en el sistema alimentario judío en la España medieval|first=Enrique|publisher=[[Universidad Nacional de Educación a Distancia]]|location=Madrid|journal=Espacio, Tiempo y Forma, Serie III, Historia Medieval|issue=16 |doi=10.5944/etfiii.16.2003.3689|doi-access=free}}</ref> ''[[Potaje]]s'' were an important part of the Jewish cuisine in the Middle Ages, most notably ''[[adafina]]'' (a local name for a ''[[Cholent|ḥamin]]'' dish){{Sfn|Cantera Montenegro|2003|p=32}} along with other Jewish culinary legacies in Spain.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://academiaaragonesadegastronomia.com/sites/default/files/archivos/2%20LA%20COCINA%20JUDIA.pdf|title=La Cocina Judia (para celebrar la vida)|author=Debora Chomski|website=Academiaaragonesadegastronomia.com|access-date=2022-03-10}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=https://diariodegastronomia.com/gastronomia-sefardi-la-red-juderias-espana/ |title=Gastronomía sefardí en la Red de Juderías de España - Diario de Gastronomía: Cocina, vino, gastronomía y recetas gourmet |website=Diariodegastronomia.com |date= 17 July 2020|access-date=2022-03-09}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.cervantes.es/imagenes/file/biblioteca/bibliografia_sefardi.pdf|title=Bibliografia Sefardi|website=Cervantes.es|access-date=2022-03-10}}</ref> ''[[:es:Almodrote|Almodrote]]'' (a formerly popular sauce preparation out of vogue since the late 17th century) was a [[Sephardic Jewish cuisine|Sephardic recipe]] in origin.<ref>{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=u0lfDgAAQBAJ&q=gastronomia+judia+musulmana+espa%C3%B1a&pg=PT121|title=Las cosas claras y el chocolate espeso: Historias, curiosidades y anécdotas gastronómicas|first=Fernando|last=Quesada|date=13 March 2017|publisher=Editorial Cultiva Libros S.L.|isbn=9781635037104|via=Google Books}}</ref>

The history of cookbooks in Spain can be traced back to works such as the ''{{ill|Llibre de Sent Soví|es}}'' (1324) and Ruperto de Nola's ''{{ill|Llibre de Coch|es}}'' (1520),<ref>{{Cite book|chapter-url=https://uknowledge.uky.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1031&context=hisp_etds|page=30|year=2015|chapter=Eating Spain: National Cuisine Since 1900|first=Matthew J.|last=Wild|title=Theses and Dissertations-Hispanic Studies|volume=24}}</ref> both written in the Catalan language. Other of the earliest cooking books in pre-modern Iberia are the ''{{ill|Fiḍālat al-Jiwān fī Ṭayyibāt al-Ṭaʿām wa-l-Alwān|es}}'' by Murcia-born [[Ibn Razīn al-Tujībī]] and the anonymous ''[[Kitāb al-Ṭabikh fī al-Maghrib wa al-Andalus fī ʽAṣr al-Muwaḥḥidīn, li-muʽallif majhūl]]'', written in Arabic.<ref>{{Cite journal|url=https://muse.jhu.edu/article/910127|title=Looking Back and Looking Beyond: Food Studies in Premodern Iberia|first=Carolyn A.|last=Nadeau|journal=La Corónica|volume=50|issue=1–2|year=2021–22|pages=259–271 |doi=10.1353/cor.2021.a910127 }}</ref>

=== Modern era ===
{{See also|Columbian exchange}}
[[File:Bodegón con pepinos y tomates-Meléndez.jpg|thumb|right|Still-life painting by [[Luis Egidio Meléndez]] (1774) featuring cucumbers and tomatoes]]
[[File:1908-10-17, Blanco y Negro, La cocina (cropped).jpg|thumb|right|The kitchen of the Asylum of San Bernardino in Madrid (c. 1908)]]
The arrival of Europeans in the [[Americas]] in 1492 initiated the advent of new culinary elements, such as [[tomato]]es, [[potato]]es, [[maize]], [[bell pepper]]s, spicy [[chili pepper|peppers]], [[paprika]], [[vanilla]] and [[cocoa bean|cocoa]]. Spain was where chocolate was first mixed with sugar to temper its natural bitterness. Other ingredients traveled to the Americas, such as rice, grapes, olives, and many types of cereals.<ref>{{Cite book|title = Food Culture in Spain (Food Culture around the World)|last = Medina|first = Xavier|publisher = Greenwood|year = 2005|isbn = 978-0313328190}}</ref>

Influenced by [[Arabic]] ''[[harisa]]'', grain-based soups such as ''[[:ca:farinetes|farinetes]]'' (along the Mediterranean coast) and, similarly, ''[[gachas]]'' (in the [[Meseta Central|Central Plateau]]) were customary in Early Modern Spain.<ref>{{Cite book|page=15|title=At the First Table. Food and Social Identity in Early Modern Spain|first=Jodi|last=Campbell|publisher=[[University of Nebraska Press]]|location=Lincoln and London|year=2017|isbn=9780803296619}}</ref>

Foreign visitors noted with disdain the Spaniards' use of olive oil and [[lard]] for cooking rather than their preferred [[butter]]. The latter was barely available and, according to the 17th-century account of [[Madame d'Aulnoy]], on the rare occasions that it was, would come "from afar, preserved in pig's tripes and full of worms". Butter was only produced locally in places such as Galicia, Asturias and Soria, or was imported, preserved in [[potassium nitrate]], (the so-called "Flanders' butter").<ref name=mantecas>{{cite web|url=https://www.lavozdegalicia.es/noticia/gastronomia/2019/05/02/anos-extranjeros-odiaban-cocina-espanola/00031556794334462869280.htm|website=[[La Voz de Galicia]]|title=¿Por qué hace años los extranjeros odiaban la cocina española?|date=30 May 2019|first=Ana|last=Vega de Arlucea}}</ref>

By the 18th century, many American ingredients, such as peppers and tomatoes, had been fully incorporated into Spanish cuisine. Contemporary foreign visitors, such as French ambassador [[Jean-François de Bourgoing]], judged negatively this change happening in Spain by the late part of the century: "Spanish cooking, which they have inherited, is not generally pleasing to foreigners. Spaniards like strong condiments such as pepper, tomato sauce, hot peppers and saffron, which color or infect nearly all their dishes."<ref>{{Cite book|page=33|chapter-url=https://books.google.com/books?id=zGKpBQAAQBAJ&pg=PP1|title=Global Goods and the Spanish Empire, 1492-1824: Circulation, Resistance and Diversity|editor-first=Bethany|editor-last=Aram|editor-first2=Bartolomé|editor-last2=Yun-Casalilla|publisher=[[Palgrave Macmillan]]|doi=10.1057/9781137324054|year=2014|chapter=The Early Modern Food Revolution: A Perspective from the Iberian Atlantic|first=María de los Ángeles|last=Pérez Samper|isbn=978-1-349-45891-2}}</ref>

Spain was the bridge for the [[Columbian exchange]] between the rest of Europe and the New World.{{Sfn|Pérez Samper|2014|p=33}} Many traditional Spanish dishes such as ''[[Spanish omelette|tortilla de patata]]'' (an omelette made with potatoes), would not be possible without the Columbian exchange. ''[[Gazpacho]]'', ''[[salmorejo]]'', and ''[[pan con tomate]]'' are made with tomatoes, which traveled from the New World to the Old World.{{Citation needed|date=July 2021}}

For most of the 19th century, the aristocracy consumed a set of dishes that was largely an imitation of French cuisine. That was the available cuisine at the time, together with the degeneration of regional cuisines.<ref name=revistadelibros /> One positive foreign take on the Spanish dishes—opposing the largely negative views of other foreign commentators—was that of [[Richard Ford (English writer)|Richard Ford]], who was fond of Spanish specialties such as [[sherry]] and [[Jamón serrano|ham]].<ref name=revistadelibros>{{Cite journal|journal=[[Revista de Libros]]|url=https://www.revistadelibros.com/articulos/evolucion-de-la-cocina-espanola-durante-los-siglos-xix-y-xx|title=De la fonda nueva a la nueva cocina. La evolución del gusto culinario en España durante los siglos XIX y XX|first1=Pilar|last1=Bueno|last2=Ortega|first2=Raimundo|date=1 August 1998}}</ref>

Modern Spanish cuisine was gestated in the late-19th to early-20th century, with gastronomes and writers such as [[Mariano Pardo de Figueroa]] (Dr. Thebussem), [[:es:José Castro y Serrano|José Castro y Serrano]], [[:es:Ángel Muro|Ángel Muro]], [[Emilia Pardo Bazán]], and [[Dionisio Pérez Gutiérrez|Dionisio Pérez]], some of whom put effort into developing the idea of a "national cuisine" recognisable by Spaniards as their own.<ref>{{Cite journal|journal=Culture & History Digital Journal|volume=6|issue=2|year=2017|issn=2253-797X|doi=10.3989/chdj.2017.019|title=The Gestation of Modern Gastronomy in Spain (1900-1936)|first1=Ainhoa|last1=Aguirregoitia-Martínez|first2=Mª Dolores|last2=Fernández-Poyatos|page=019|url=https://www.researchgate.net/publication/321370968|doi-access=free|hdl=10045/71778|hdl-access=free}}</ref>

Keen on participating in the Spanish nation-building process, Dr. Thebussem, in an autochthonous example of [[culinary nationalism]], proposed to the King's Chef that the ''[[olla podrida]]'' (a rustic stew typically made of meat, legumes and other vegetables) should be served at official banquets as a national dish.<ref>{{Cite journal|journal=Journal of Spanish Cultural Studies|year=2013|volume=14|issue=4|pages=400–414|doi=10.1080/14636204.2013.916027|title=The unity and diversity of La olla podrida: an autochthonous model of Spanish culinary nationalism|first=Lara|last=Anderson|publisher=[[Routledge]]|s2cid=143940504}}</ref> This could be considered an important step in the process of straying away from the French cooking paradigm,{{Sfn|Anderson|2013|pp=402–403}} which was dominant in the 19th century in Europe. ''Olla podrida'' had been previously ridiculed in foreign (most notably French) satires.{{Sfn|Anderson|2013|p=404}}

Although the new foodscape built in opposition to the French centralist culinary model accounted for the awareness of the distinctive regional singularities, subsequent food writers in the country would continue to cope with the tension between the Spanish peripheral and centralist foodscapes.<ref>{{Cite book|chapter=Writing from and for the Periphery. Carving Out a Place for Spanish Food Studies|first=Lara|last=Anderson|title=Repensar los estudios ibéricos desde la periferia|volume=13|chapter-url=https://minerva-access.unimelb.edu.au/bitstream/handle/11343/240961/Anderson_Writing%20from%20and%20for%20the%20periphery.pdf?sequence=5&isAllowed=y|issn=2610-8844|doi=10.30687/978-88-6969-302-1/006|year=2019|publisher=Edizioni Ca' Foscari|isbn=978-88-6969-302-1|s2cid=166399222 |page=104}}</ref>

The influential cooking book ''1080 recetas de cocina'' by [[Simone Ortega]] (first published in 1972) became a hit in Spain, remaining as of 2019 the third best-selling book ever in the history of the country after ''Don Quixote'' and the Bible.<ref name=elmundo /> This was not a book exclusively of Spanish traditional recipes, but also included French recipes, bringing an exotic penchant to Spanish homes.<ref name=elmundo>{{cite web|url=https://www.elmundo.es/papel/gastro/2019/05/31/5cef9e52fc6c838a168b4648.html|website=[[El Mundo (Spain)|El Mundo]]|title=Así consiguió Simone Ortega que sus '1080 recetas' se vendan tanto como el 'Quijote'|date=31 May 2019|first=Víctor de la|last=Serna}}</ref>

Televised [[cooking shows]] started in the country in 1984 with ''[[Con las manos en la masa]]''.<ref>{{Cite book|chapter-url=http://www.bne.es/es/Micrositios/Exposiciones/Cocina/documentos/cocina_estudios_5.pdf|pages=191–193|chapter=Libertad en los fogones. La cocina española y sus libros, de la transición a nuestros días|first1=Toni|last1=Massanés|first2=Jorge|last2=Guitiá|publisher=[[Biblioteca Nacional de España]]|title=La cocina en su tinta|year=2010|isbn=978-84-92462-15-5<!--pages=159–195-->}}</ref>