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==History== ===Toponymy=== {{For|the toponymy of the area's street names|Street names of Southwark}} The name ''Suthriganaweorc''<ref name="Mills">{{Cite book |last=Mills |first=D. |year=2000 |title=Oxford Dictionary of London Place Names |publisher=Oxford University Press}}</ref> or ''Suthringa geweorche''<ref name="Johnson">{{cite book|first=David J. |last=Johnson |title=Southwark and the City |publisher=Oxford University Press |year=1969 |page=7 |isbn=978-0-19-711630-2}}</ref> is recorded for the area in the 10th-century [[Anglo-Saxons|Anglo-Saxon]] document known as the ''[[Burghal Hidage]]''<ref name="Johnson"/> and means "fort of the men of [[Surrey]]"<ref name="Mills"/> or "the [[burh|defensive work]] of the men of Surrey".<ref name="Johnson"/> Southwark is recorded in the 1086 [[Domesday Book]] as ''Sudweca''. The name means "southern defensive work" and is formed from the [[Old English]] ''sūþ'' (south) and ''weorc'' (work). The southern location is in reference to the [[City of London]] to the north, Southwark being at the southern end of [[London Bridge]]. In [[Old English]], [[Surrey]] means "southern district (or the men of the southern district)",<ref>Erkwall, Eilert, ''Concise Oxford Dictionary of Place Names'', 4th edition.</ref> so the change from "southern district work" to the latter "southern work" may be an evolution based on the elision of the single syllable '''''ge''''' element, meaning district. ===Rome=== [[File:Reconstruction drawing of Londinium in 120 AD, Museum of London (34881481351).jpg|thumb|London in 120 AD, showing the original high-tide waterline around Southwark, to the left (south)]] [[File:Map Londinium 400 AD-en.svg|thumb|Londinium in 400 AD: A narrow strip of firm ground on the Southwark side, provided an opportunity to bridge the Thames. The bridge was central to the foundation of Londinium.]] [[File:Stelalondon.jpg|thumb|Museum of London, inscription on a [[stele]] that mentions 'Londoners' for the first time]] Recent excavation has revealed pre-Roman activity including evidence of early [[ploughing]], [[burial mounds]] and ritual activity.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Prehistoric Southwark {{!}} Southwark Council |url=https://www.southwark.gov.uk/planning-environment-and-building-control/planning/design-and-conservation/archaeology-and-2 |website=Southwark Council}}</ref> The natural geography of Southwark (now much altered by human activity), was the principal determining factor for the location of London Bridge, and therefore London itself. ====Natural setting==== Until relatively recent times, the Thames in central London was much wider and shallower at high tide. The natural shoreline of the City Of London was a short distance further back than it is now, and the high tide shoreline on the Southwark side was much further back, except for the area around London Bridge. Southwark was mostly made up of a series of often marshy tidal islands in the Thames, with some of the waterways between these island formed by branches of the [[River Neckinger]], a tributary of the Thames. A narrow strip of higher firmer ground ran on a N-S alignment and, even at high tide, provided a much narrower stretch of water, enabling the Romans to bridge the river. As the lowest bridging point of the Thames in [[Roman Britain]], it determined the position of [[Londinium]]; without London Bridge there is unlikely to have been a settlement of any importance in the area; previously the main crossing had been a ford near [[Vauxhall Bridge]]. Because of the bridge and the establishment of London, the Romans routed two [[Roman road]]s into Southwark: [[Stane Street (Chichester)|Stane Street]] and [[Watling Street]] which met in what in what is now [[Borough High Street]]. For centuries London Bridge was the only Thames bridge in the area, until a bridge was built upstream more than {{convert|10|miles|km}} to the west.{{NoteTag|Namely [[Kingston Bridge, London]] from at least 1190s until the building of closer bridges since, starting with Putney Bridge in 1729.}} ====Archaeological finds==== In February 2022, archaeologists from the [[Museum of London Archaeology]] (MOLA) announced the discovery of a well-preserved massive Roman [[mosaic]] which is believed to date from A.D. 175–225. The dining room ([[triclinium]]) mosaic was patterned with knot patterns known as the [[Solomon's knot]] and dark red and blue floral and geometric shapes known as [[Guilloché|guilloche]].<ref>{{Cite web |first=Jeevan |last=Ravindran |title=London's largest Roman mosaic in 50 years discovered by archaeologists |url=https://www.cnn.com/style/article/roman-mosaic-london-discovery-scli-scn-intl-gbr/index.html |access-date=2022-02-27 |website=CNN |date=23 February 2022 |language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=Sharp |first=Sarah Rose |date=2022-02-24 |title=Large Roman Mosaic Discovered in Central London |url=http://hyperallergic.com/713581/large-roman-mosaic-discovered-in-central-london/ |access-date=2022-02-27 |website=Hyperallergic |language=en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=Goldstein |first=Caroline |date=2022-02-24 |title=Digging in the Shadows of London's Shard, Archaeologists Discovered a 'Once-in-a-Lifetime Find': a Shockingly Intact Roman Mosaic |url=https://news.artnet.com/art-world/roman-mosaic-unearthed-in-london-2077551 |access-date=2022-02-27 |website=Artnet News |language=en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=Solomon |first=Tessa |date=2022-02-24 |title=Archaeologists Uncover London's Largest Roman Mosaic in 50 Years |url=https://www.artnews.com/art-news/news/largest-roman-mosaic-london-found-50-years-1234620022/ |access-date=2022-02-27 |website=ARTnews.com |language=en-US}}</ref> Archaeological work at [[Tabard Street]] in 2004 discovered a plaque with the earliest reference to 'Londoners' from the Roman period on it. ====End of Roman Southwark==== Londinium was abandoned at the end of the Roman occupation in the early 5th century and both the city and its bridge collapsed in decay.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Medieval Southwark {{!}} Southwark Council |url=https://www.southwark.gov.uk/planning-environment-and-building-control/planning/design-and-conservation/archaeology-and/medieval |website=Southwark Council}}</ref> The settlement at Southwark, like the main settlement of London to the north of the bridge, had been more or less abandoned, a little earlier, by the end of the fourth century.<ref>Naismith, Rory, ''Citadel of the Saxons'', p. 35, 2019.</ref> === Saxons and Vikings === {{Annotated image|image=LondonBeforeHouses.jpg|image-width=1000|image-left=-325|image-top=-325|width =320|height=215|float=left|caption=Southwark, [[City of London|the City]], [[Westminster]] and neighbouring areas, before urbanisation. Canute's Trench, around the edge of Southwark, is shown.}} ====King Alfred the Great==== Southwark appears to recover only during the time of King [[Alfred the Great|Alfred]] and his successors. Sometime about 886, the ''burh'' of Southwark was created and the Roman city area reoccupied.<ref>{{Cite web |date=2014-03-01 |title=The re-establishment of London by Alfred the Great {{!}} The History of London |url=https://www.thehistoryoflondon.co.uk/the-re-establishment-of-london-by-alfred-the-great/ |website=The History of London |language=en-GB |quote=One of the few events to be contemporarily recorded about London during the entire period between the Romans and early Middle Ages is found in the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle, written during Alfred's reign, for the year 886. "King Alfred occupied London [although in reality he had probably already done so for several years] and all the English people ['all angelcyn'] that were not under the subjection of the Danes submitted to him. And he then entrusted the borough to the control of Ealdorman Aethelred".}}</ref> It was probably fortified to defend the bridge and hence the reemerging [[City of London]] to the north. ====St Olaf==== This defensive role is highlighted by the role of the bridge in the 1014-1016 war between King [[Ethelred the Unready]] and his ally [[Olaf II of Norway|Olaf II Haraldsson]] (later King of Norway, and afterwards known as ''St Olaf'', or ''St Olave'') on one side, and [[Sweyn Forkbeard]] and his son [[Cnut the Great|Cnut]] (later King Cnut), on the other. London submitted to Swein in 1014, but on Swein's death, Ethelred returned, with Olaf in support. Swein had fortified London and the bridge, but according to [[Snorri Sturluson|Snorri Sturleson's]] saga, Edgar and Olaf tied ropes from the bridge's supporting posts and pulled it into the river, together with the Danish army, allowing Ethelred to recapture London.<ref>Inwood, Stephen, ''A History of London'', Macmillan, 1998. {{ISBN|0-7867-0613-9}}, p. 45.</ref> This may be the origin of the nursery rhyme "[[London Bridge Is Falling Down]]".<ref>Hagland, Jan Ragnar, and Bruce Watson, [https://archaeologydataservice.ac.uk/archiveDS/archiveDownload?t=arch-457-1/dissemination/pdf/vol10/vol10_12/10_12_328_333.pdf "Fact or folklore: the Viking attack on London Bridge"], ''London Archaeologist'', Spring 2005.</ref> There was a church, [[St Olave's Church, Southwark|St Olave's Church]], dedicated to St Olaf before the Norman Conquest and this survived until the 1920's. [[St Olaf House]] (part of [[London Bridge Hospital]]), named after the church and its saint, stands on the spot. [[Tooley Street]], being a corruption of ''St Olave's Street'', also takes its name from the former church.<ref>Weinreb and Hibbert, ''The London Encyclopaedia'', 1983.</ref> ====King Canute==== Cnut returned in 1016, but capturing the city was a great challenge. To cut London off from upstream riverborne supplies, Cnut dug a trench around Southwark, so that he could sail or drag his ships around Southwark and get upstream in a way that allowed his boats to avoid the heavily defended London Bridge.<ref name="Brayley1829">{{cite book|first=Edward Wedlake |last=Brayley|title=Londiniana: Or, Reminiscences of the British Metropolis: Including Characteristic Sketches, Antiquarian, Topographical, Descriptive, and Literary|url=https://archive.org/details/londiniana02unkngoog|year=1829|publisher=Hurst, Chance, and Company|pages=[https://archive.org/details/londiniana02unkngoog/page/n84 52]–54}}</ref> In so doing he hoped to cut London off from river borne resupply from upstream. The Dane's efforts to recapture London were in vain, until he defeated Ethelred at the [[Battle of Assandun]] in Essex later that year, and became King of England. It is thought that the section of the Kent Road, at Lock Bridge, was ''Canute's Trench''.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Besant |first1=Walter |authorlink=Walter Besant |url=https://archive.org/details/londonsouthoftha00besa |title=London South Of The Thames |location=London |publisher=Adam & Charles Black |year=1912 |pages=[https://archive.org/details/londonsouthoftha00besa/page/67 67]-68 |access-date=2014-08-11 }}</ref> In May, 1016,<ref name="Dickens1861">{{cite book|first=Charles |last=Dickens|title=All the Year Round|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Am8HAQAAIAAJ&pg=PA470|year=1861|publisher=Charles Dickens|page=470}}</ref> In 1173, a channel following a similar course was used to drain the Thames to allowing building work on London Bridge.<ref name="Hughson1808">{{cite book|first=David |last=Hughson|title=London; Being an Accurate History and Description of the British Metropolis and Its Neighbourhood: To Thirty Miles Extent, from an Actual Perambulation|url=https://archive.org/details/londonbeinganac02hughgoog|year=1808|publisher=W. Stratford|page=[https://archive.org/details/londonbeinganac02hughgoog/page/n60 60]}}</ref> [[File:St Olave on the exterior of St Olaf's House.jpg|thumb| [[St Olaf House]], Southwark. [[Olaf II of Norway|Olaf, (or Olave)]], helped the English retake London Bridge, and with it London, from his fellow Norsemen.]] ===Later medieval period=== Southwark and in particular the Bridge, proved a formidable obstacle against [[William the Conqueror]] in 1066. He failed to force the bridge during the [[Norman conquest of England]], but [[Burning of Southwark|Southwark was devastated]].<ref>Naismith, Rory, ''Citadel of the Saxons'', {{ISBN|978 1 78831 222 6}}, p. 185. In the book Naismith cites his source as Gesta Guillelmi, ed and translated by Davis and Chibnall, p146-7. He also refers Janet L Nelson 'The rites of the Conqueror' pp. 117–32 and 210–21 cited from her book 'Politics and ritual in Early Medieval Europe' (1986), pp. 373–401 and 375–6.</ref> At Domesday, the area's assets were: Bishop [[Odo of Bayeux]] held the [[monastery]]<ref name=ODO /> (the site of modern [[Southwark Cathedral]]) and the tideway, which still exists as St Mary Overie dock; the King owned the church (probably [[St Olave's Church, Southwark|St Olave's]]) and its tidal stream (St Olave's Dock); the dues of the waterway or mooring place were shared between King [[William the Conqueror|William I]] and Earl [[Godwin, Earl of Wessex|Godwin]]; the King also had the toll of the strand; and "men of Southwark" had the right to "a haw and its toll". Southwark's value to the King was [[Pound sterling|£]]16.<ref name=ODO /> Much of Southwark was originally owned by the church – the greatest reminder of monastic London is [[Southwark Cathedral]], originally the priory of St Mary Overie. During the early [[Middle Ages]], [[Southwark (UK Parliament constituency)|Southwark]] developed and was one of the four Surrey towns which returned Members of [[Parliament of England|Parliament]] for the first [[House of Commons (United Kingdom)|commons assembly]] in 1295.<ref>{{Cite web |date=1993 |editor-last=Roskell |editor-first=J. S. |editor2-last=Clark |editor2-first=L. |editor3-last=Rawcliffe |editor3-first=C. |title=The History of Parliament: the House of Commons 1386-1421 |url=https://www.historyofparliamentonline.org/volume/1386-1421/constituencies/southwark |website=The History of Parliament: British Political, Social & Local History}}</ref> An important market occupied the High Street from some time in the 13th century, which was controlled by the city's officers—it was later removed in order to improve traffic to the Bridge, under a separate Trust by Act of Parliament of 1756 as the [[Borough Market]] on the present site. The area was renowned for its inns, especially [[The Tabard]], from which [[Geoffrey Chaucer]]'s pilgrims set off on their journey in ''[[The Canterbury Tales]]''. [[File:Panorama of London in 1543 Wyngaerde Section 2.jpg|thumb|250px|Part of the Panorama by Wyngaerde (Section 2), with Southwark in the foreground and what is today Southwark Cathedral and the old London Bridge at center in 1543]] [[File:Claude de Jongh - Old London Bridge 2019 CKS 17195 0009.jpg|thumb|250px|Old London Bridge, {{Circa|1650}}, with what is now Southwark Cathedral visible at right]] The continuing defensive importance of London Bridge was demonstrated by its important role in thwarting [[Jack Cade's Rebellion]] in 1450;<ref>{{Cite book |last=Castor |first=Helen |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=cH-Z-6osohsC |title=Blood and Roses |date=2011-11-03 |publisher=Faber & Faber |isbn=978-0-571-28680-5 |pages=61 |language=en}}</ref> Cade's army tried to force its way across the bridge to enter the City, but was foiled in a battle which cost 200 lives.<ref>Inwood, ''A History of London'', 1998, p. 85.</ref> The bridge was also closed during the [[Siege of London (1471)|Siege of London]] in 1471, helping to foil attempts by the [[Thomas Neville (died 1471)|Bastard of Fauconberg]] to cross and capture the City. ===Post-medieval=== Just west of the Bridge was the [[Liberty of the Clink]] manor, which was never controlled by the city, but was held under the [[Bishopric of Winchester]]'s nominal authority. This lack of oversight helped the area become the entertainment district for London, with a concentration of sometimes disreputable attractions such as [[bull-baiting|bull]] and [[bear-baiting]], taverns, theatre and [[brothel]]s.<ref>{{cite book|title=Institutes of the Laws of England|volume=Third Part|year=1644|last=Coke|first=Sir Edward|page=205}}</ref> In the 1580s, [[Reasonable Blackman]] worked as a silk weaver in Southwark, as one of the first people of African heritage to work as independent business owners in London in that era.<ref name="Kaufman">{{cite book |title=Black Tudors: The Untold Story|last1=Kaufmann|first1=Miranda|author-link=Miranda Kaufmann|date=2017|publisher=OneWorld|isbn=978-1-78607-396-9|location=UK|page=121}}</ref><ref name="Bidisha">{{cite news |last1=Bidisha |title=Tudor, English and black – and not a slave in sight |url=https://www.theguardian.com/world/2017/oct/29/tudor-english-black-not-slave-in-sight-miranda-kaufmann-history |access-date=29 July 2019 |work=The Guardian |date=30 October 2017 |location=London, England |author1-link=Bidisha }}</ref><ref name="BBC">{{cite journal |title=The prosperous silk weaver |journal=BBC History Magazine |date=9 November 2017 |url = https://www.pressreader.com/uk/bbc-history-magazine/20171109/282175061375411 |access-date=29 July 2019 }}</ref> In 1587, Southwark's first playhouse theatre, [[The Rose (theatre)|The Rose]], opened. The Rose was set up by [[Philip Henslowe]], and soon became a popular place of entertainment for all classes of Londoners. Both [[Christopher Marlowe]] and [[William Shakespeare]], two of the finest writers of the Elizabethan age, worked at the Rose. In 1599 the [[Globe Theatre]], in which Shakespeare was a shareholder, was erected on the [[Bankside]] in the Liberty of the Clink. It burned down in 1613,<ref>{{Cite web |title=The Globe {{!}} Shakespeare's Globe |url=https://www.shakespearesglobe.com/discover/shakespeares-world/the-globe/ |website=Shakespeare's Globe |language=en-GB}}</ref> and was rebuilt in 1614, only to be closed by the [[Puritans]] in 1642 and subsequently pulled down not long thereafter. A modern replica, called [[Shakespeare's Globe]], has been built near the original site. The impresario in the later Elizabethan period for these entertainments was Shakespeare's colleague [[Edward Alleyn]], who left many local charitable endowments, most notably [[Dulwich College]]. During the [[Second English Civil War]], a force of Kentish Royalist Rebels approached London, hoping the lightly defended city might fall to them, or that the citizens would rise in their favour, however their hopes were quashed when [[Philip Skippon]], in charge of the defence swiftly fortified the bridge making it all but impregnable to the modest Royalist force. On 26 May 1676, ten years after the [[Great Fire of London]], a great fire broke out, which continued for 17 hours before houses were blown up to create fire breaks. King [[Charles II of England|Charles II]] and his brother, [[James II of England|James]], [[Duke of York]], oversaw the effort.<ref>{{Cite web |title=The Southwark Fire Court |url=https://londontopsoc.org/product/the-southwark-fire-court/#:~:text=On%2026%20May%201676,%20a,crises%20in%20seventeenth-century%20England. |access-date=2025-01-17 |website=London Topographical Society |language=en-GB}}</ref> There was also a famous fair in Southwark which took place near the Church of [[St George the Martyr, Southwark|St George the Martyr]]. [[William Hogarth]] depicted this fair in his engraving of ''[[Southwark Fair]]'' (1733).<ref>{{Cite web |title=Southwark Fair by William Hogarth {{!}} Works of Art {{!}} RA Collection {{!}} Royal Academy of Arts |url=https://www.royalacademy.org.uk/art-artists/work-of-art/southwark-fair-1 |website=Royal Academy of Arts}}</ref> Southwark was also the location of several [[prisons]], including those of the Crown or Prerogative Courts, the [[Marshalsea Prison|Marshalsea]] and [[King's Bench Prison|King's Bench]] prisons, those of the local manors' courts, e.g., [[Borough Compter]], [[The Clink]] and the Surrey county gaol originally housed at the White Lion Inn (also informally called the Borough Gaol) and eventually at [[Horsemonger Lane Gaol]].<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Darlington |first=Ida |date=1955 |title=Southwark Prisons |url=https://www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-london/vol25/pp9-21 |journal=Survey of London: Volume 25, St George's Fields (The Parishes of St. George the Martyr Southwark and St. Mary Newington) |location=Londres}}</ref> One other local family is of note, the Harvards. [[John Harvard (clergyman)|John Harvard]] went to the local parish free school of St Saviour's and on to [[Cambridge University]]. He migrated to the [[Massachusetts]] Colony and left his library and the residue of his will to the new college there, named after him as its first benefactor. [[Harvard University]] maintains a link, having paid for a memorial chapel within Southwark Cathedral (his family's parish church), and where its UK-based alumni hold services. John Harvard's mother's house is in [[Stratford-upon-Avon]]. ===Urbanisation=== In 1836 the first railway in the London area was created, the [[London and Greenwich Railway]], originally terminating at [[Spa Road railway station|Spa Road]] and later extended west to [[London Bridge station|London Bridge]].<ref>{{Cite web |title=The history of London Bridge station |url=https://www.networkrail.co.uk/who-we-are/our-history/iconic-infrastructure/the-history-of-london-bridge-station/ |website=Network Rail |language=en-GB}}</ref> [[File:Laytons Buildings, Southwark, 1904 by Philip Norman.jpg|thumb|Laytons Buildings, Southwark, 1904 by [[Philip Norman (artist)|Philip Norman]]]] In 1861, another great fire in Southwark destroyed a large number of buildings between Tooley Street and the Thames, including those around Hays Wharf (later replaced by [[Hays Galleria]]) and blocks to the west almost as far as [[St Olave's Church, Southwark|St Olave's Church]].<ref>{{Cite web |title=Tooley Street Fire |url=https://www.historic-uk.com/HistoryUK/HistoryofBritain/Tooley-Street-Fire/ |website=Historic UK |language=en-GB}}</ref> The first deep-level underground tube line in London was the [[City and South London Railway]], now the Bank branch of the [[Northern line]], opened in 1890, running from [[King William Street tube station|King William Street]] south through [[Borough tube station|Borough]] to [[Stockwell station|Stockwell]]. Southwark, since 1999, is also now served by [[Southwark tube station|Southwark]], [[Bermondsey tube station|Bermondsey]] and London Bridge stations on the [[Jubilee line]].
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