Editing Punk fashion (section)

==History==
===1970s===
[[File:Paris-punk-luigi-1981.jpg|thumb|upright|left|A punk wearing a customized blazer, as was popular in the early punk scene]]
Punk rock was an intentional rebuttal of the perceived excess and pretension found in mainstream music (or even mainstream culture as a whole), and early punk artists' fashion was defiantly anti-materialistic. Bands that had been at the forefront of the wave of rebellion, like [[the Rolling Stones]] and [[the Beatles]], had become 'respectable', having achieved worldwide renown and subsequent wealth. [[Arena rock]] groups of the early 70's, with long, drawn out songs rooted in the psychedelic movement, were viewed as out-of-touch by fans who were much less economically successful. A desire for music to reflect their values of dissatisfaction and alienation began to develop.<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Simonelli |first=D. |date=2002-06-01 |title=Anarchy, Pop and Violence: Punk Rock Subculture and the Rhetoric of Class, 1976-78 |url=https://doi.org/10.1080/713999447 |journal=Contemporary British History |volume=16 |issue=2 |pages=121–144 |doi=10.1080/713999447 |s2cid=143857096 |issn=1361-9462}}</ref> Generally unkempt, often short hairstyles replaced the long-hair hippie look and the usually elaborate 1970s rock and [[disco]] styles. In the United States, dirty, simple clothes{{snd}}ranging from the T-shirt/jeans/leather jacket [[Ramones]] look to the low-class, second-hand "dress" clothes of acts like [[Television (band)|Television]] or [[Patti Smith]]{{snd}}were preferred over the expensive or colorful clothing popular in the disco scene.<ref>{{Cite web|title=The Disco Lifestyle|url=http://socialdance.stanford.edu/syllabi/disco_lifestyle.htm|access-date=2020-10-14|website=socialdance.stanford.edu}}</ref> With her designs for [[The Rocky Horror Show]] and [[The Rocky Horror Picture Show]], [[Sue Blane]] is credited with creating the look that became the template for punk rock fashion.<ref name="punkblane">{{Cite book |last=Thompson |first=Dave |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=qx6GDAAAQBAJ&q=Sue+blane%2C+punk+rock&pg=PA1785 |title=The Rocky Horror Picture Show FAQ: Everything Left to Know About the Campy Cult Classic |date=2016-02-01 |publisher=Applause Theatre & Cinema Books |isbn=978-1495007477 |page=1785}}</ref>

In the United Kingdom, 1970s punk fashion influenced the designs of [[Vivienne Westwood]] and [[Malcolm McLaren]]<ref>{{Cite book |last=Kawamura |first=Y |title=Fashion-ology : An Introduction to Fashion Studies |date=2005 |publisher=Bloomsbury Publishing |location=Oxford |page=102}}</ref> and the [[Bromley Contingent]]. Mainstream punk style was influenced by clothes sold in Malcolm McLaren's shop,<ref>{{Cite web |last=Walker |first=John |title=Malcolm McLaren & the sources of Punk |url=http://www.artdesigncafe.com/Malcolm-McLaren-Sex-Pistols-punk-music-art}}</ref> ''artdesigncafe''. McLaren has credited this style to his first impressions of [[Richard Hell]], while McLaren was in [[New York City]] working with [[New York Dolls]]. Hell is credited as one of the first to help popularize the stereotypical 'punk' look, spiking his hair and wearing t-shirts that were held together with safety pins.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Rip It to Shreds: A History of Punk and Style |url=https://pitchfork.com/features/from-our-partners/9943-rip-it-to-shreds-a-history-of-punk-and-style/ |access-date=2023-04-01 |website=Pitchfork |date=25 October 2016 |language=en}}</ref> Punk fashion aimed to provoke and challenge middle class culture, often through vulgarity, illicit iconography, and sexual innuendos, among other means. Deliberately offensive [[T-shirt]]s were popular in the early punk scene, such as the ''DESTROY'' T-shirt sold at [[SEX (boutique)|SEX]], which featured an [[Christian demonology#Diabolical symbols|inverted crucifix]] and a [[Nazism|Nazi]] [[Swastika]]. Another offensive T-shirt that is still occasionally seen in punk is called ''Snow White and the Sir Punks'', and features Snow White being held down and raped by five of the seven dwarfs, whilst the other two engage in anal sex. The image's origin is as part of ''[[The Realist]]'' magazine's [[The Realist#Disneyland Memorial Orgy poster|Disneyland Memorial Orgy poster]] in May 1967, although the T-shirts made the scene more explicit.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Snow White & The Disneyland Memorial Orgy |url=http://rockpopfashion.com/blog/?p=60 |access-date=2017-08-07 |archive-date=2017-08-07 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170807192530/http://rockpopfashion.com/blog/?p=60 |url-status=usurped }}</ref> These T-shirts, like other punk clothing items, were often torn on purpose. Other items in early British punk fashion included: leather jackets; customised [[blazer]]s; and dress shirts randomly covered in slogans (such as "Only Anarchists are pretty"), blood, patches and controversial images.

British punks also used fashion as a means to criticize the monarchy; Westwood's ''God Save the Queen'' shirt featured an image of [[Elizabeth II|Queen Elizabeth II]] alongside text reading "She ain't no human being", taken directly from the [[God Save the Queen (Sex Pistols song)|Sex Pistol's single]] of the same name. While the band has denied that the single was produced specifically in reaction to the Queen's [[Silver Jubilee of Elizabeth II|Silver Jubilee]], the song and Westwood's design were viewed as an affront to British values of patriotism and the monarchy. 

Many early punks wore swastikas and used Nazi imagery in their dress. As a means to provoke people, the symbol retained great power to alarm. Key examples of punk usage of Nazi symbols can be identified in Westwood's ''DESTROY'' t-shirt which was worn by members of the Sex Pistols, or a dress shirt which featured striping similar to those on the uniforms worn by prisoners in [[concentration camps]]. Sid Vicious wore a t-shirt featuring a swastika while he walked through a Jewish neighbourhood in the film ''[[The Great Rock 'n' Roll Swindle|The Great Rock and Roll Swindle]].'' With the resurgence of Britain's [[National Front (UK)|National Front]], those who wore the swastika discredited the anti-racist values of the movement.<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Simonelli |first=D. |date=2002-06-01 |title=Anarchy, Pop and Violence: Punk Rock Subculture and the Rhetoric of Class, 1976-78 |url=https://doi.org/10.1080/713999447 |journal=Contemporary British History |volume=16 |issue=2 |pages=121–144 |doi=10.1080/713999447 |s2cid=143857096 |issn=1361-9462}}</ref>

Other accoutrements worn by some punks included: [[Fetish fashion|BDSM fashions]], [[Fishnet (material)|fishnet]] [[stockings]] (sometimes ripped), spike bands and other studded or spiked jewelry, [[safety pin]]s (in clothes and as [[body piercing]]s), silver bracelets and heavy eyeliner worn by both men and women. Many female punks rebelled against the stereotypical image of a woman by combining clothes that were delicate or pretty with clothes that were considered masculine, such as combining a [[Ballet tutu]] with big, clunky boots.{{citation needed|date=April 2014}} Female exemplars of early punk style included [[Pamela Rooke]] aka Jordan,<ref>{{cite journal |last1=Shutler |first1=Ali |title=Punk Legend Jordan – aka Pamela Rooke – Has Died |journal=New Musical Express |date=2022-04-04 |url=https://www.nme.com/news/music/punk-legend-jordan-aka-pamela-rooke-has-died-3197799 |access-date=2022-04-22 |quote=Rooke was a model who worked with Vivienne Westwood and helped create the W10 London punk look alongside Johnny Rotten, Soo Catwoman and Siouxsie Sioux.}}</ref> [[Siouxsie Sioux]], [[Soo Catwoman]],<ref>{{cite web |title=Soo Catwoman |url=https://www.soocatwoman.com |website=Soo Catwoman |access-date=2022-04-22}}</ref> and [[Gaye Advert]].<ref>{{cite journal |last1=Kelly |first1=Mark |title=Exclusive Interview with The Adverts Iconic Bass Player Gaye Advert |journal=Brighton and Hove News |date=2019-08-14 |url=https://www.brightonandhovenews.org/2019/08/14/exclusive-interview-with-the-adverts-iconic-bass-player-gaye-advert/ |access-date=2022-04-22}}</ref>

Punk clothing sometimes incorporated everyday objects for aesthetic effect. Many outfits were made out pieces of clothing that were readily available, either from secondhand stores or whatever kids had on hand.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Understanding the Punk Fashion Movement on 2020's Runways - Coveteur: Inside Closets, Fashion, Beauty, Health, and Travel |url=https://coveteur.com/2020/03/17/punk-fashion-movement/ |access-date=2023-04-01 |website=coveteur.com |language=en}}</ref> Emphasizing a [[Do it yourself|DIY]] ethos, many punks utilized jean and leather jackets as canvases for pins, paint, and spikes.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Rip It to Shreds: A History of Punk and Style |url=https://pitchfork.com/features/from-our-partners/9943-rip-it-to-shreds-a-history-of-punk-and-style/ |access-date=2023-04-01 |website=Pitchfork |date=25 October 2016 |language=en}}</ref> Purposely ripped clothes were held together by safety pins or wrapped with tape; black [[Bin bag|bin liners]] (garbage bags) became dresses, shirts and skirts. Mohair, PVC, and other odd, anachronistic elements of fashion were utilized in outfits.<ref>{{Cite web |date=2013-04-28 |title=The Filth and the Fury: how punk changed everything |url=https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/features/the-filth-and-the-fury-how-punk-changed-everything-8591618.html |access-date=2023-04-01 |website=The Independent |language=en}}</ref> Other items added to clothing or as jewellery included razor blades and chains. [[Leather]], [[rubber]] and [[Polyvinyl chloride|vinyl]] clothing have been common, possibly due to their connection with transgressive [[Human sexual activity|sexual practices]], such as [[Bondage (sexual)|bondage]] and [[Sadomasochism|S&M]]. Provocative imagery referencing sexual practices and deviant forms of sexuality were utilized, such as in Vivienne Westwood's ''Two Cowboys'' shirt, which featured an illustration by [[Jim French (photographer)|Jim French]] of two cowboys naked from the waist down, one of them fixing the other's neckerchief. Its depiction of homosexuality was provocative within a middle-class British culture that was hostile to sexual relations alternate to heterosexuality.<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Rosato |first=Ashley |date=2022-12-01 |title=Vivienne Westwood and the Socio-Political Nature of Punk |url=https://digitalcommons.pace.edu/honorscollege_theses/368 |journal=Honors College Theses}}</ref>

Preferred footwear included military boots, [[motorcycle boot]]s, [[brothel creepers]], Puma Clydes (suede), [[Chuck Taylor All-Stars]] and later, [[Dr. Martens]] boots. Tapered [[jeans]], tight leather pants, trousers with leopard patterns and [[bondage pants]] were popular choices. Other early punks (most notably [[The Adicts]]) imitated the [[Nadsat|Droogs]] from A Clockwork Orange by wearing [[bowler hat]]s and [[Suspenders|braces]]. Hair was cropped and deliberately made to look messy, and was often dyed bright unnatural colours. Although provocative, these hairstyles were not as extreme as later punk hairstyle.

Keen designers, much like Westwood, had been able to draw inspiration from the punk style found on the streets, translating its anarchic frustration and resistance to the runways.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Understanding the Punk Fashion Movement on 2020's Runways - Coveteur: Inside Closets, Fashion, Beauty, Health, and Travel |url=https://coveteur.com/2020/03/17/punk-fashion-movement/ |access-date=2023-04-01 |website=coveteur.com |language=en}}</ref> Zandra Rhodes utilized rips, tears and safety pins in her 1977 'Conceptual Chic' collection; similarly, Claude Montana presented 12 models in "black leather jackets, caps, and pants in 1977. As it gained popularity on the runway, many designers viewed its origin on the streets as 'trashy' and that it no longer served as a source of fresh inspiration.<ref>{{Cite news |last=Hyde |first=Nina S. |author-link=Nina Hyde |date=1977-10-29 |title=And Now 'Punk Chic' |language=en-US |newspaper=Washington Post |url=https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1977/10/29/and-now-punk-chic/ef17f57e-977b-4f6a-a2ff-c35e328ab1bd/ |access-date=2023-04-01 |issn=0190-8286}}</ref> Fashion designers ended up creating a standardized palette where the punk look was, more or less, essentially uniform. Spiky hair, jeans or bondage trousers, leather jackets with slogans, pins, and patches on them, T-shirts, studs and chains all became hallmarks of the look, undermining the individuality that had been essential to the movement.<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Simonelli |first=D. |date=2002-06-01 |title=Anarchy, Pop and Violence: Punk Rock Subculture and the Rhetoric of Class, 1976-78 |url=https://doi.org/10.1080/713999447 |journal=Contemporary British History |volume=16 |issue=2 |pages=121–144 |doi=10.1080/713999447 |s2cid=143857096 |issn=1361-9462}}</ref>

===1980s===
[[File:Punks burning a flag.jpg|thumb|Early 1980s punk fashion]]
In the 1980s, new fashion styles developed as parallel resurgences occurred in the [[United States]] and [[United Kingdom]]. What many recognize as typical punk fashions today emerged from the 1980s British scene, when punk underwent its [[Oi!]]/[[street punk]], and [[UK82]] renaissance. The US scene was exemplified by [[Hardcore punk|hardcore]] bands such as [[Black Flag (band)|Black Flag]], [[Minor Threat]], and [[Fear (band)|Fear]]. The 1980s American scene spawned a utilitarian anti-fashion that was nonetheless raw, angry, and intimidating. However, elements of the 1970s punk look never fully died away.

Some of the following clothing items were common on both sides of the [[Atlantic Ocean]], and some were unique to certain geographic areas. Footwear that was common in the 1980s punk scene included [[Dr. Martens]] boots, [[motorcycle]] boots and [[combat boot]]s; sometimes adorned with [[Kerchief|bandanas]], chains or studded leather bands. [[Jeans]] (sometimes dirty, torn or splattered with bleach) and [[tartan]] [[kilt]]s or skirts were commonly worn. Leather skirts became a popular item for female punks. Heavy chains were sometimes used as belts. Bullet belts, and studded belts (sometimes more than one worn at a time) also became common.

Some punks bought [[T-shirt]]s or [[tartan|plaid]] [[flannel]] [[shirt]]s and wrote political slogans, band names or other punk-related phrases on them with [[marker pen]]s. While this was not without precedent in the 1970s, the depth and detail of these slogans were not fully developed until the 1980s. Silkscreened T-shirts with band logos or other punk-related logos or slogans were also popular. Studded, painted and otherwise customised leather jackets or denim vests became more popular during this era, as the popularity of the earlier customized blazers waned, somewhat.

Hair was either shaved, spiked or in a [[crew cut]] or [[Mohawk hairstyle]]. Tall mohawks and spiked hair, either bleached or in bright colors, took on a more extreme character than in the 1970s. ''Charged'' hair, in which all of one's hair stands on end but is not styled into distinct spikes, also emerged. A hairstyle similar to [[Misfits (band)|The Misfits]]' [[devilock]]s was popular. This involved cutting a mohawk but leaving a longer tuft of hair at the front of the head. It is still popular to this day in the Horror-Punk scene. Body piercings and extensive [[tattoo]]s became very popular during this era, as did spike bands and studded in [[choker]]s. Some hardcore punk women reacted to the earlier 1970s movement's [[wikt:coquettish|coquettish]] vibe by adopting an androgynous style.

Hardcore punk fans adopted a ''dressed-down'' style of [[T-shirt]]s, [[jeans]], [[combat boots]] or [[Sneakers (footwear)|sneakers]] and [[crewcut]]-style haircuts. Women in the hardcore scene typically wore army pants, band T-shirts, and hooded sweatshirts.<ref name="Premium">{{Cite web |date=2019-01-31 |title=80s Fashion - Vintage 80s Style and Outfits |url=https://premrev.com/vintage-80s-fashion/#80s_Punk_Fashion |access-date=2019-01-31 |website=Premium Review}}</ref><ref name="BrockmeierxDUO p. 12">{{Cite thesis |last=Brockmeier |first=Siri C. |title='Not Just Boys Fun?' The Gendered Experience of American Hardcore |date=May 2009 |publisher=UNIVERSITETET I OSLO Press |url=https://www.duo.uio.no/bitstream/handle/10852/26264/BrockmeierxDUO.pdf?sequence=1 |page=12 |access-date=6 July 2016}}</ref>

The style of the 1980s hardcore scene contrasted with the more provocative fashion styles of late 1970s punk rockers (elaborate [[punk hair|hairdos]], torn clothes, patches, safety pins, studs, spikes, etc.). [[Circle Jerks]] frontman [[Keith Morris]] described early hardcore fashion as "the...punk scene was basically based on English fashion. But we had nothing to do with that. [[Black Flag (band)|Black Flag]] and the Circle Jerks were so far from that. We looked like the kid who worked at the gas station or submarine shop."<ref>{{Cite web |date=2003-02-17 |title=CITIZINE Interview - Circle Jerks' Keith Morris (Black Flag, Diabetes) |url=http://www.citizinemag.com/music/music-0303_kmorris.htm |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20111006082011/http://www.citizinemag.com/music/music-0303_kmorris.htm |archive-date=2011-10-06 |access-date=2011-12-04 |publisher=Citizinemag.com}}</ref> [[Henry Rollins]] echoes Morris' point, stating that for him getting dressed up meant putting on a black shirt and some dark pants; Rollins viewed an interest in fashion as being a distraction.<ref>{{Cite web |title=29 Things You Didn't Know About Punk Style - Hardcore punk of the '80s preferred simple, utilitarian style because it was better for moshing. |website=[[Complex Networks]] |url=http://m.complex.com/style/2013/04/29-things-you-didnt-know-about-punk-style/hardcore-punk |access-date=6 July 2016}}</ref>

[[Jimmy Gestapo]] from [[Murphy's Law (band)|Murphy's Law]] describes his own transition from dressing in a punk style (spiked hair and a bondage belt) to adopting a hardcore style (shaved head and boots) as being based on needing more functional clothing.<ref name="BrockmeierxDUO p. 12" /> A scholarly source states that "hardcore kids do not look like punks", since hardcore scene members wore basic clothing and short haircuts, in contrast to the "embellished leather jackets and pants" worn in the punk scene.<ref name="BrockmeierxDUO p. 11">{{Cite thesis |last=Brockmeier |first=Siri C. |title='Not Just Boys Fun?' The Gendered Experience of American Hardcore |date=May 2009 |publisher=UNIVERSITETET I OSLO Press |url=https://www.duo.uio.no/bitstream/handle/10852/26264/BrockmeierxDUO.pdf?sequence=1 |page=11 |access-date=6 July 2016}}</ref> In contrast to Morris' and Rollins' views, one scholarly source claims that the standard hardcore punk clothing and styles included torn jeans, leather jackets, spiked armbands and dog collars and [[mohawk hairstyle]]s and DIY ornamentation of clothes with studs, painted band names, political statements, and patches.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Leblanc |first=Lauraine |url=https://archive.org/details/prettyinpunkgirl0000lebl |title='Pretty in Punk: Girls' Gender Resistance in a Boys' Subculture |date=1999 |publisher=Rutgers University Press |page=[https://archive.org/details/prettyinpunkgirl0000lebl/page/52 52] |url-access=registration}}</ref> Another scholarly source describes the look that was common in the San Francisco hardcore scene as consisting of biker-style leather jackets, chains, studded wristbands, pierced noses and multiple piercings, painted or tattooed statements (e.g. an anarchy symbol) and hairstyles ranging from military-style haircuts dyed black or blonde, mohawks, and shaved heads.<ref>{{Cite book |last1=Travis |first1=Tiffini A. |title=Skinheads: A Guide to an American Subculture |last2=Hardy |first2=Perry |date=2012 |work=From San Francisco Hardcore Punks to Skinheads |publisher=ABC-CLIO |page=123}}</ref>