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==History== [[File:Empanadas de Atún-2009.jpg|thumb|left|Spanish pastry in Madrid]] While modern puff pastry was developed in France in the 17th century, related laminated and air-leavened pastry has a long history. In Spain, likely built upon Arab or Moorish culinary traditions, the first known recipe for pastry using butter or lard following the Arab technique of making each layer separately, appears in the Spanish recipe book {{Lang|es|Libro del arte de cozina}} ('book on the art of cooking') by Domingo Hernández de Maceras, published in 1607.<ref name="perez">{{cite book |last1= Pérez Samper |first1=María Angeles |oclc=538258373 |title=La alimentación en la España del Siglo de Oro: Domingo Hernandez de Maceras, ''Libro del arte de cocina'' |date=1998 |publisher=La Val de Onsera |location=Zaragoza, Spain |isbn=978-84-88518-34-7 |trans-title=Food in Golden Age Spain: Domingo Hernandez de Maceras, ''Book of the art of cooking''|id=Publisher's note: A study of food in Golden Age Spain, which focuses on and reproduces the work of Hernández de Maceras in its entirety |language=es}}</ref> Hernández, the head cook of a college of the [[University of Salamanca]], already distinguished between filled puff pastry recipes and puff pastry tarts, and even mentions leavened preparations. Francisco Martínez Motiño, head chef to [[Philip II of Spain]] (1527–1598),<ref>{{cite book |title=Enciclopedia universal ilustrada europeo-americana |date=1917 |location=Barcelona & Madrid |publisher=Espasa-Calpe |page=557 |volume=33: MARI–MECH |lang=es |title-link= Enciclopedia universal ilustrada europeo-americana |isbn= 9788423945009}}</ref> also gave several recipes of puff pastry in his {{Lang|es|Arte de cocina, pastelería, bizcochería y conservería}} published in 1611.<ref>Martínez Montiño, Francisco, ''Arte de cocina, pastelería, bizcochería y conservería'', Barcelona: Tusquets, 1982. ISBN 84-7223-425-8</ref> In this book, puff pastry is abundantly used, particularly to make savoury game pies.<ref name="Dionisio">{{cite book |last=Pérez Gutiérrez |first=Dionisio |author-link=Dionisio Pérez Gutiérrez |title=Guía del buen comer español: Inventario y loa de la cocina clásica de España y de sus regiones |location=Madrid |publisher= Imprenta de los Sucesores de Rivadeneyra|date=1929}}</ref> [[File:SchweineohrGebaeck3.JPG|thumb|right|A [[palmier]], or "palm leaf", design]] The oldest known documented recipe for puff pastry in France was included in a charter by Robert, [[bishop of Amiens]] in 1311.{{r|Larousse}} The first recipe to explicitly use the technique of {{lang|fr|[[wikt:tourage|tourage]]}} (the action of encasing solid butter within dough layers, keeping the fat intact and separate, by folding several times) was published in 1651 by [[François Pierre La Varenne]] in {{Lang|fr|Le cuisinier français}}.{{r|duc 2006}}<ref>{{Cite book |author=La Varenne |url=https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k114423k |title=Le cuisinier françois, enseignant la manière de bien apprester et assaisonner toutes sortes de viandes... légumes,... par le sieur de La Varenne,... |date=1651 |language=fr}}</ref> Modern French puff pastry was then developed and improved by the chef M. Feuillet and [[Antonin Carême]].<ref>{{Cite book |last=Carême |first=Marie-Antoine|id= M. A. Carême (1784-1833): Auteur du texte |url=https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k852237p |title=Le pâtissier royal parisien ou Traité élémentaire et pratique de la pâtisserie ancienne et moderne |volume= II |date=1815 |language=fr}}</ref>{{r|ppc 1984}}{{r|Ox comp}} The method is sometimes considered the idea of the famous painter [[Claude Lorrain|Claude Gellée]] when he was an apprentice baker in 1612. Historical evidence for this is negligible, but it is retained as culinary lore.{{r|ppc 1984}} The story goes that Lorrain was making a type of very buttery bread for his sick father, and the process of rolling the butter into the bread dough created a [[croissant]]-like finished product.<ref>{{Cite encyclopedia |last=Favre |first=Joseph |url=https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k57317645/f403 |title=Feuilletage |encyclopedia=Dictionnaire universel de cuisine pratique: Encyclopédie illustrée d'hygiène alimentaire — modification de l'homme par l'alimentation |edition=Deuxième majeure, révisée |volume=3|pages=841–842 |date=1905 |language=fr |via=Gallica – [[Bibliothèque nationale de France]]}}</ref>
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