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==History== {{Main|History of Pamplona}} {{For timeline}} [[File:Baluarte de Redín3.JPG|thumb|The city walls of Pamplona]] ===Foundation and Roman times=== In the winter of 75–74 BC, the area served as a camp for the [[Roman Republic|Roman]] general [[Pompey]] in the war against [[Sertorius]]. He is considered to be the founder of '''Pompaelo''', "as if ''Pompeiopolis''" in Strabo's words,<ref>[[Ptolemy]] ii. 6. § 67; [[Strabo]] iii. § 161</ref> which became Pamplona, in modern [[Spanish language|Spanish]]. However, in later times, it has been discovered to be the chief town of the [[Vascones]]. They called it Iruña, translating to 'the city'. Roman Pompaelo was located in the province of [[Hispania Tarraconensis]], on the [[Ab Asturica Burdigalam]], the road from Burdigala (modern [[Bordeaux]]) to Asturica (modern [[Astorga, Spain|Astorga]]);<ref>[[Antonine Itinerary]] p. 455</ref> it was a ''[[civitas stipendiaria]]'' in the jurisdiction of the ''[[conventus iuridicus|conventus]]'' of [[Caesaraugusta]] (modern [[Zaragoza]]).<ref>[[Pliny the Elder]] iii. 3. s. 4.</ref> ===Early Middle Ages=== [[File:Vasconia wide 740 3 - 80.jpg|thumb|Pamplona, at the centre of numerous military campaigns during the eighth century]] [[File:Iñigo Arista de Pamplona - Compendio de crónicas de reyes (Biblioteca Nacional de España).png|thumb|upright|[[Íñigo Arista of Pamplona|Eneko Arista]], first king of Pamplona (15th-century miniature from [[Madrid, Biblioteca Nacional de España, MS 7415]])]] During the [[Germanic invasions]] of 409 and later as a result of [[Rechiar]]'s ravaging, Pamplona went through much disruption and destruction,<ref>Collins 1990, p.76</ref> starting a cycle of general decline along with other towns across the Basque territory, but managing to keep some sort of urban life.<ref>Collins 1990, p.102</ref> During the [[History of spain#Visigothic Hispania (5th–8th centuries)|Visigothic period]] (fifth to eighth centuries), Pamplona alternated between self-rule, Visigoth domination or Frankish suzerainty in the [[Duchy of Vasconia]] (Councils of Toledo unattended by several Pamplonese [[bishop]]s between 589 and 684). In 466 to 472, Pamplona was conquered by the Visigoth count Gauteric,<ref>{{cite book | author = Jurio, Jimeno | year = 1995 | title = Historia de Pamplona y de sus lenguas | publisher = Editorial Txalaparta | location = Tafalla | isbn = 84-8136-017-1 | page = 35}}</ref> but they seemed to abandon the restless position soon, struggling as the Visigoth kingdom was to survive and rearrange its lands after their defeats in Gaul. During the beginning of the sixth century, Pamplona probably stuck to an unstable self-rule, but in 541, Pamplona, along with other northern Iberian cities, was raided by the Franks. Around 581, the Visigoth king Liuvigild overcame the Basques, seized Pamplona, and founded in the town of Victoriacum.<ref>{{cite book | author = Jurio, Jimeno | year = 1995 | title = Historia de Pamplona y de sus lenguas | publisher = Editorial Txalaparta | isbn = 84-8136-017-1 | page = 36}}</ref> Despite the legend citing [[Saint Fermin]] as the first bishop of Pamplona and his baptising of 40,000 pagan inhabitants in just three days, the first reliable accounts of a bishop date from 589, when bishop Liliolus attended the [[Third Council of Toledo]]. After 684 and 693, a bishop called Opilano is mentioned again in 829, followed by [[Wiliesind]] and a certain Jimenez from 880 to 890. Even in the 10th century, important gaps are found in bishop succession, which is recorded unbroken only after 1005.<ref>Collins 1990, p.154</ref> At the time of the [[Umayyad conquest of Hispania|Umayyad invasion]] in 711, the Visigothic king [[Roderic]] was fighting the [[History of the Basque people#Early Middle Ages|Basques]] in Pamplona and had to turn his attention to the new enemy coming from the south. By 714–16, the Umayyad troops had reached the Basque-held Pamplona, with the town submitting apparently after a treaty was brokered between the inhabitants and the Arab military commanders.<ref>Collins 1990, p.116</ref> The position was then garrisoned by Berbers, who were stationed on the outside of the actual fortress, and established the cemetery unearthed not long ago at the Castle Square (''Plaza del Castillo''). During the following years, the Basques south of the Pyrenees do not seem to have shown much resistance to the Moorish thrust, and Pamplona may even have flourished as a launching point and centre of assembly for their expeditions into [[Duchy of Vasconia|Gascony]].<ref>Collins 1990, p.117</ref> In 740, the Wali (governor) [[Uqba ibn al-Hajjaj]] imposed direct central Cordovan discipline on the city. In 755, though, the last governor of [[Al-Andalus]], [[Yusuf al Fihri]], sent an expedition north to quash Basque unrest near Pamplona, resulting in the defeat of the Arab army.<ref>Collins 1990, p.119</ref> From 755 until 781, Pamplona remained autonomous, probably relying on regional alliances. Although sources are not clear, it seems apparent that in 778, the town was in hands of a Basque local or a Muslim rebel faction loyal to the Franks at the moment of [[Charlemagne]]'s crossing of the Pyrenees to the south. However, on his way back from the failed expedition to Saragossa in August, the walls and probably the town were destroyed by Charlemagne (ahead of the Frankish defeat in the famous [[Battle of Roncevaux]]), out of fear that the anti-Frankish party strong in the town might use the position against him. After [[Abd al-Rahman I]]'s conquest, Pamplona and its hinterland remained in a state of shaky balance between Franks, regional [[Al-Andalus|Andalusian]] lords and central Cordovan rule, all of whom proved unable to permanently secure dominance over the Basque region. To a considerable extent, that alternation reflected the internal struggles of the Basque warrior nobility. After the Frankish defeat at Roncevaux (778), Pamplona switched again to [[Al-Andalus#Umayyad Caliphate of Córdoba|Cordovan rule]], after Abd-al-Rahman's expedition captured the stronghold in 781. A ''wali'' or governor was imposed, Mutarrif ibn-Musa (a Banu-Qasi) up to the 799 rebellion. In that year, the Pamplonese—possibly led by a certain Velasko—stirred against their governor, but later the inhabitants provided some support for the [[Banu Qasi]] Fortun ibn-Musa's uprising. This regional revolt was shortly after suppressed by the Cordovan emir [[Hisham I of Córdoba|Hisham I]], who re-established order, but failed to retain his grip on the town, since the Pamplonese returned to Frankish suzerainty in 806.<ref>Collins 1990, p.124</ref> A Muslim cemetery containing about 200 human remains mingled with Christian tombs was unearthed in 2003 at the Castle Square, bearing witness to an important Muslim presence in the city during this period, but further research was stopped by the destruction of this and other historic evidence as decided by the city council, headed by mayor [[Yolanda Barcina]].<ref>{{cite news |last=Rekalde |first=Angel |date=2014-01-08 |title=Las piedras de la plaza del Castillo |url=http://www.noticiasdenavarra.com/2014/01/08/opinion/colaboracion/las-piedras-de-la-plaza-del-castillo |archive-url=https://archive.today/20140818204849/http://www.noticiasdenavarra.com/2014/01/08/opinion/colaboracion/las-piedras-de-la-plaza-del-castillo |url-status=dead |archive-date=2014-08-18 |newspaper=Noticias de Navarra |location=Pamplona |access-date=2014-08-18 }}</ref><ref>{{cite news |date=2002-02-16 |title=El informe pericial de Aranzadi denuncia 'un expolio' arqueológico en la Plaza del Castillo |url=http://elpais.com/diario/2002/02/16/paisvasco/1013892006_850215.html |newspaper=El País |access-date=2014-08-02 }}</ref> Following a failed expedition to the town led by [[Louis the Pious]] around 812, allegiance to the Franks collapsed after [[Iñigo Arista|Enecco Arista]] rose to prominence. Moreover, he was crowned as [[List of Navarrese monarchs|king of Pamplona]] in 824, when the [[Banu Qasi]] and he gained momentum in the wake of their victorious [[Battle of Roncevaux Pass (824)|second battle of Roncevaux]]. The new kingdom, inextricably linked to the Banu Qasi of Tudela, strengthened its independence from the weakened Frankish empire and [[Caliphate of Córdoba|Cordoban emirate]]. During this period, Pamplona was not properly a town, but just a kind of fortress. In 924, [[Caliphate of Cordoba|Cordovan]] sources describe Pamplona as "not being especially gifted by nature", with its inhabitants being poor, not eating enough, and dedicated to banditry. They are reported to speak Basque for the most part, which "makes them incomprehensible".<ref>{{cite book | author = Jimeno Aranguren, Roldan; Lopez-Mugartza Iriarte, J.C. (Ed.) | year = 2004 | title = ''Vascuence y Romance: Ebro-Garona, Un Espacio de Comunicación'' | publisher = Gobierno de Navarra / Nafarroako Gobernua | location = Pamplona | isbn = 84-235-2506-6 | page = 179}}</ref> On the 24 July, after Christian troops and citizens fled, troops from Cordova sacked Pamplona, destroying houses and buildings including its celebrated church.<ref>{{cite book | author = Jurio, Jimeno | year = 1995 | title = Historia de Pamplona y de sus lenguas | publisher = Editorial Txalaparta | location = Tafalla | isbn = 84-8136-017-1 | page = 64}}</ref> The town only regained its urban and human shape after the end of raids by Vikings and Andalusians on the province. Especially after 1083, traffic on the [[Way of St James]] brought prosperity and new cultures via travelers from north of the Pyrenees.<ref>{{cite book | author = Jimeno Aranguren, Roldan; Lopez-Mugartza Iriarte, J.C. (Ed.) | year = 2004 | title = ''Vascuence y Romance: Ebro-Garona, Un Espacio de Comunicación'' | publisher = Gobierno de Navarra / Nafarroako Gobernua | location = Pamplona | isbn = 84-235-2506-6 | page = 167}}</ref> ===Three boroughs and one city=== {{see also|Privilege of the Union}} From the 11th century, reviving economic development allowed Pamplona to recover its urban life. The bishops of Pamplona recovered their ecclesiastical leading role; during the previous centuries, isolated [[monasteries]], especially [[Monastery of Leyre|Leyre]], had actually held the religious authority. The [[Way of Saint James|pilgrimages to Santiago de Compostela]] contributed to the revival of the commercial and cultural exchanges with Christian Europe beyond the [[Pyrenees]]. In the 12th century, the city enlarged with two new separate ''burgos'' (independent boroughs): San Cernín (Saint Saturnin) and [[San Nicolas (Pamplona burg)|San Nicolás]]; the population of local Navarrese mainly confined to the original urban nucleus, the Navarrería, was swelled by [[Occitan language#Occitan in Spain|Occitan]] merchants and artisans. The boroughs showed very distinct features both socially and culturally, and were almost always engaged in quarrels among themselves. The most dramatic episode was the burning of the borough San Nicolás in 1258 and the destruction of the Navarrería by the other two boroughs and the massacre of its population in 1276. The site was abandoned for nearly 50 years. With regards to the outer defence walls of the city, the southern side was the weakest flank of the city, and the Navarrese king [[Louis X of France|Louis I]] built a castle in the early 14th century in the site known today as Plaza del Castillo (Castle Square). Eventually, King [[Charles III of Navarre|Charles III]] decreed the [[Privilege of the Union|unification of the boroughs]] in a single city in 1423. The feuds between boroughs had been partly ignited by disputes over the use of the gulf dividing the three boroughs, so after Charles III's unification, the gulf was filled and on its site a common space laid out on the present-day city hall. The walls dividing the boroughs were demolished. During the late 15th century, Pamplona bore witness to power struggles between the Beaumont and Agramont confederacies and external military interventions. Several times, the stronghold was taken over by different factions and foreign forces, like the ones sent by [[Ferdinand II of Aragon]]. Queen [[Catherine I of Navarre|Catherine I]] was a minor and often absent from Pamplona, but eventually she married [[John III of Navarre|John III]] in 1494, an event celebrated with joy in the city. However, Navarre continued divided. Historically, a [[Jewish]] community existed in Pamplona. The first documentation of Jews in Pamplona dates to 958, when [[Hasdai Ibn Shaprut]] visited Pamplona on a diplomatic mission to meet with [[Sancho I of Pamplona|Sancho I]].<ref>{{cite web |title=Pamplona |url=https://www.jewishvirtuallibrary.org/pamplona#:~:text=Even%20though%20there%20is%20no,and%20the%20community's%20property%20confiscated. |website=Jewish Virtual Library |access-date=25 June 2024}}</ref> The Jews of Pamplona had an independent court system which enforced the Jewish system of [[halacha]], or religious laws. In 1498, the Jewish population was either expelled or forced to convert to Christianity.<ref>{{cite web |last1=Singer |first1=Isidore |last2=Kayserling |first2=Meyer |title=PAMPLONA |url=https://www.jewishencyclopedia.com/articles/11881-pamplona |website=The Jewish Encyclopedia |access-date=25 June 2024}}</ref> <gallery widths="200" heights="200"> File:Caídoslat.JPG|The ''Monumento a los Caídos'', Francoist memorial, subject to debate about its potential demolition File:Calle Estafeta de Pamplona.JPG|Estafeta Street File:Sanfermines Vaquillas Pamplona 08.jpg|[[Running of the Bulls]] File:Chupinazo8.jpg|Seconds before the beginning of the [[Festival of San Fermín|San Fermín Festival]]—Town Hall Square: Everybody has a red handkerchief above their heads until a firework is exploded at 12 pm; putting it around their neck afterward </gallery> ===A fortress-city=== After the [[Spanish conquest of Iberian Navarre|1512 conquest and annexation]] of Navarre to Spain, Pamplona remained as capital of the semiautonomous [[Kingdom of Navarre#Later history and the end of the fueros|kingdom of Navarre]], which preserved its own (reformed) institutions and laws. Pamplona became a Castilian-Spanish outpost at the foot of the western Pyrenees. After the Castilian conquest, king [[Ferdinand the Catholic|Ferdinand V]] ordered in 1513 the demolition and removal of the medieval castle and the city's monasteries, as well as the building of a new castle in a very close place. In 1530, with Navarre under Spanish military occupation, the Castilian viceroy was still expecting a "French invasion", and in fear of a possible revolt of the city dwellers, he requested an additional 1,000-strong force from what he called "healthy land", i.e. Castile, besides the 1,000 stationed already in Navarre.<ref name="ConqNavarre">{{cite book |author1 = Monreal, Gregorio |author2 = Jimeno, Roldan |year = 2012 |title = Conquista e Incorporación de Navarra a Castilla |publisher = Pamiela |location=Pamplona-Iruña |isbn = 978-84-7681-736-0 |page = 71}}</ref> The progress of [[artillery]] demanded a complete renewal of the fortified system. Starting in 1569, King [[Philip II of Spain|Philip II]] built the fortifications at Pamplona, to designs by [[Giovan Giacomo Paleari]] and [[Vespasiano Gonzaga]]. The citadel in the south of the town is a pentagonal [[Bastion fort|star fort]]. Phillip had the city bounded by walls that made it almost a regular pentagon. The modernization of the walls was intended mainly to keep locals in check<ref>{{dead link|date=July 2023}}{{cite web |url=http://www2.noticiasdenavarra.com/ediciones/2008/02/17/vecinos/pamplona/d17pam30.1162828.php |title=200 años de la caída de la Ciudadela |publisher=Diario de Noticias |access-date=2008-02-17 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20111117161823/http://www2.noticiasdenavarra.com/ediciones/2008/02/17/vecinos/pamplona/d17pam30.1162828.php |archive-date=November 17, 2011 }} Article in Spanish</ref> and strengthen the outpost Pamplona had become on the border with [[Kingdom of Navarre#Independent Navarre north of the Pyrenees|independent Navarre]], a close ally of France. The walls that exist today date from the late 16th to 18th centuries. During the 18th century, Pamplona was considerably beautified and its urban services improved. A continuous [[water supply]] was established and the streets were paved, among many other enhancements. Rich aristocrats and businessmen also built their mansions. In the 19th century, this fortress-city played a key role in several wars in which Spain was involved. During the [[Peninsular War]] of the [[Napoleonic Wars]], French troops occupied the city - by launching a ''[[coup de main]]'' (surprise attack) and seized the city in 1808, and remained in it until the French forces were compelled to surrender on 31 October 1813 due to starvation, having been blockaded in the town for four months by the Spanish army under [[Henry O'Donnell, 1st Count of la Bisbal|Enrique José O'Donnell]].<ref>{{cite book |last=Porter |first=Maj Gen Whitworth |title=History of the Corps of Royal Engineers Vol I |year=1889 |publisher=The Institution of Royal Engineers |location=Chatham}}</ref>{{rp|334}} [[File:Environs_de_San_Sebastian_par_Didier_Petit_de_Meurville_(années_1850).jpg|thumb|View of Pamplona during the 1850s]] During the [[Carlist Wars]] (1833–1839 and 1872–1876) Pamplona was each time controlled by the liberals, not just because the few liberals that lived in Navarre were mainly Pamplonese, but also because of the governmental control over the fortified city. Although Carlist rebels easily ruled the countryside, the government army had no problem in dominating the walled capital of Navarre. Nevertheless, during the last Carlist war, modern artillery operated by Carlists from surrounding mountains showed that the old walls would not be enough in the face of a stronger enemy. Thus, the government decided to build a [[Fort San Cristóbal (Spain)|fort on the top of mount San Cristóbal]], just {{convert|3|km|abbr=on}} north of Pamplona. Due to its military role, the city could not grow outside its walled belt. Furthermore, building in the closest area to the walls was banned to avoid any advantage for a besieger; thus the city could only grow by increasing its housing density. Higher and narrower houses were built and courtyards gradually disappeared. During the 19th century, [[road transportation]] improved, and the [[railway]] came in 1860. Nevertheless, industry in Pamplona and Navarre as a whole was weak during the century of the [[Industrial Revolution]]. Basically, no industrial development was feasible in such a constrained fortress-city. After a slight modification of the star fort allowed an expansion of just six blocks in 1888, the [[First World War]] demonstrated that the fortified system of Pamplona was already obsolete. In 1915, the Army allowed the destruction of the walls and abolished the building ban in the city's surroundings. The southern side of the walls was destroyed and the other three remained as they did not hinder urban growth. The star fort continued to serve as a military facility until 1964, but just as a garrison. Pamplona has in recent years taken great care to integrate and preserve its fortifications for modern use. In October 2014, working with the city of Bayonne, Pamplona hosts an international conference 'Fortified Heritage: Management and Sustainable Development', the website is in English, French, and Spanish.<ref>[http://congress.fortiuspamplonabayonne.eu/ congress.fortiuspamplonabayonne.eu] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140413003205/http://congress.fortiuspamplonabayonne.eu/ |date=2014-04-13 }}</ref> Available on a growing website are two free e-books, with copious colour photographs, on Pamplona's fortifications. Published in 2011 is 'Five living centuries of an impregnable fortress' about the city citadel<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://issuu.com/pamplonaescultura/docs/3_laciudadelapamplona_eng|title = The Citadel of Pamplona| date=6 May 2014 }}</ref> and 'A walk round the Pamplona fortifications'.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://issuu.com/pamplonaescultura/docs/2_fortinsbartolome_en/c/sl7fbga|title=San Bartolome Fort|date=6 May 2014 }}</ref> ===Industrialization and modernization=== [[File:Demografía Pamplona (España).PNG|thumb|Demographic evolution (1900–2005)]] Freed from its military function, Pamplona could lead the process of [[industrialization]] and modernization in which Navarre was involved during the 20th century, especially during its second half. The [[Urbanization|urban growth]] has been accompanied by the development of industry and services. Population growth has been the effect of an intense immigration process during the 1960s and 1970s: from the Navarrese countryside and from other less developed regions of Spain, mainly [[Castile and León]] and [[Andalusia]]. Since the 1990s the [[Immigration to Spain|immigration is coming mainly from abroad]]. Pamplona is listed as a city with one of the highest [[Standard of living|standards of living]] and [[quality of life]] in Spain.<ref>{{cite news |title=Pamplona, Bilbao and Gijón, the Spanish cities with the best quality of life |url=http://www.elmundo.es/elmundo/2007/06/20/espana/1182344494.html |work=El Mundo |date=2007-06-21 |access-date=2008-04-14 |language=es}}</ref> Its industry rate is higher than the national average,{{Citation needed|date=November 2007}} although it is threatened by delocalization. [[Crime statistics]] are lower than the national average but [[cost of living]], especially housing, is considerably higher.<ref>{{in lang|es}} [http://www.habitathumano.com/economia/mostrartodas.php?fechaparamostrar=2007-01-22 habitathumano.com] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070221113705/http://www.habitathumano.com/economia/mostrartodas.php?fechaparamostrar=2007-01-22 |date=2007-02-21 }}</ref> Thanks to its small size and an acceptable [[public transport]] service, there are no major transport problems.
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