Editing Mount Waddington (section)

==Discovery and exploration by Europeans==
[[File:Mt. Waddington.jpg|thumb|left|250px|Summit of Mount Waddington as viewed from the northwest peak]]
In 1925, while on a trip to [[Mount Arrowsmith]], [[Vancouver Island]], [[Don Munday|Don]] and [[Phyllis Munday]] spotted what they believed to be a peak taller than [[Mount Robson]], the then accepted tallest peak entirely within [[British Columbia]]. In the words of Don Munday, "The compass showed the alluring peak stood along a line passing a little east of [[Bute Inlet]] and perhaps 150 miles away, where blank spaces on the map left ample room for many nameless mountains."<ref name="Munday">Munday p. 4</ref> While there is debate as to whether the peak they saw was Mount Waddington (Don Munday observed that the feat is impossible),<ref>Fairley p. 59</ref> they almost certainly saw a peak in the [[Waddington Range]], and this led the Mundays to explore that area.

Over the next decade, the Mundays mounted several expeditions into the area in an attempt to climb it.<ref name="NP">{{cite news |last1=O'Connor |first1=Joe |title=The search for B.C.'s Mystery Mountain: Experts said it didn't exist — then Don and Phyllis Munday found it |url=https://nationalpost.com/news/canada/the-search-for-b-c-s-mystery-mountain-experts-said-it-didnt-exist-then-don-and-phyllis-munday-found-it |access-date=2 July 2018 |newspaper=National Post |date=2 July 2018}}</ref> Known to them as "The Mystery Mountain", in 1927 the height was measured at 13,260 feet by triangulation;<ref>Munday p. 124</ref> they reached the lower, north-west, summit on 8 July 1928, deeming the main summit too risky.<ref name="Scott">Chic Scott (2000), ''Pushing the Limits: The Story of Canadian Mountaineering'', Rocky Mountain Books, {{ISBN|9780921102595}}, p. 111-112.</ref> On their recommendation the [[Geographical Names Board of Canada]] named the peak Mount Waddington after [[Alfred Waddington]] who was a proponent of a road route, known as [[Waddington's Road]], and again later [[Canadian Pacific Railway survey|the same for a railway]], via the [[Homathko River]] valley and [[Bute Inlet]], which would connect to Vancouver Island via [[Seymour Narrows]].

In the summer of 1934, two expeditions attempted to climb the mountain. The first expedition, made up of climbers from [[Winnipeg]], made their attempt on the northwestern flank which had not been explored by the Mundays. After crossing [[Tatlayoko Lake]] and making their way down the Homathko River, they then spent two days constructing a bridge over Nude Creek before reaching the [[Tiedemann Glacier]] on June 23. It took them three days to reach the shoulder of Mt. Waddington at {{convert|3200|m|ft|-1|abbr=on}}. They attempted the summit on June 28 but poor weather and route conditions on the final tower forced them to retreat, {{convert|180|m|ft|-1|abbr=on}} from the top.<ref>Scott, pp. 113-114</ref> The second expedition, consisting of climbers [[Neal Carter (mountaineer)|Neal Carter]], Alan Lambert, Alec Dalgleish and Eric Brooks from British Columbia, made their attempt from the southeast.<ref name=scott114>Scott, p. 114</ref><ref name="Dalgleish">{{cite web|url=https://hikeinwhistler.com/index.php/hiking-glossary/524-alec-dalgleish|title=Alec Dalgleish|website=HikeInWhistler.com|access-date=2021-07-29}}</ref> On June 23, they established their base camp on the [[Franklin Glacier]].<ref name=scott114>Scott, p. 114</ref> The ascent abruptly ended three days later when Dalgleish fell to his death from the southeast ridge.<ref name=scott114>Scott, p. 114</ref><ref name="Dalgleish"/>

In 1935, a group of climbers from the Sierra Club of California made three attempts from their base camp at the [[Dais Glacier]]. The group failed in two attempts on the south face due to stormy conditions, poor route conditions and falling ice. Two climbers succeeded in reaching the northwest summit (first climbed by the Mundays) on a third attempt but proceeded no further.<ref name=scott114/>