Editing Jeans (section)

== History ==
===Fabric ===
[[File:Manifattura genovese, abito da festa in tela di genova (jeans), 1850-1900 ca..JPG|thumb|180px|A traditional women's Genoese dress in "blue jeans" (1890s). [[Palazzo Spinola di Pellicceria]], [[Genoa]], Italy.]]

Research on the trade of jean fabric shows that it emerged in the cities of [[Genoa]], Italy, and [[Nîmes]], France. Gênes, the French word for Genoa, might be the origin of the word "[[Wikt:jeans|jeans]]". In Nîmes, weavers tried to reproduce jean fabric but instead developed a similar [[twill]] fabric that became known as denim, "''de Nîmes"'', meaning "from Nîmes". Genoa's jeans fabric was a [[fustian]] textile of "medium quality and of reasonable cost", very similar to cotton [[corduroy]] for which Genoa was famous, and was "used for work clothes in general". The [[Genoese navy]] equipped its sailors with jeans, as they needed a fabric that could be worn wet or dry.<ref>{{cite book |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Qy4YtuIHsQcC&pg=PA235 |title=Transnationalism and Society: An Introduction |author-last=Howard |author-first=Michael C. |date=2011 |publisher=McFarland |isbn=978-0-78648625-0 |access-date=August 14, 2017 |archive-date=October 26, 2023 |archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20231026064304/https://books.google.com/books?id=Qy4YtuIHsQcC&pg=PA235#v=onepage&q&f=false |url-status=live }}</ref><ref>{{cite web |url=http://facweb.cs.depaul.edu/sgrais/jeans.htm |title=Jeans |website=facweb.cs.depaul.edu |access-date=August 14, 2017 |archive-date=June 19, 2017 |archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20170619115433/http://facweb.cs.depaul.edu/sgrais/jeans.htm |url-status=dead }}</ref> Nîmes's "denim" was coarser, considered higher quality, and was used "for over garments such as smocks or overalls".<ref name="Gruber_2010"/>{{rp|page=23}} In 1576, a quantity of "jean fustians" arrived into the port of Barnstaple on a vessel from Bristol.<ref>{{cite news |author=National Archives |title=Import and Export books for the Port of Barnstaple |date=February 18, 1576 |id=E 190/930/5}}</ref> Nearly all [[indigo]], needed for dyeing, came from indigo bush plantations in India until the late 19th century. It was replaced by indigo synthesis methods developed in Germany.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.ingenious.org.uk/site.asp?s=RM&Param=1&SubParam=1&Content=1&ArticleID=%7BCBDF1082-9F5C-498F-A769-B33A7DA83B30%7D&ArticleID2=%7B3C4444FC-FC4D-4498-B0B4-8B8A47C5BA76%7D&MenuLinkID=%7BA54FA022-17E2-483C-B937-DEC8B8964C33%7D |title=The synthesis of indigo |publisher=Ingenious.org.uk |access-date=October 28, 2015 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160304084155/http://www.ingenious.org.uk/site.asp?s=RM&Param=1&SubParam=1&Content=1&ArticleID=%7BCBDF1082-9F5C-498F-A769-B33A7DA83B30%7D&ArticleID2=%7B3C4444FC-FC4D-4498-B0B4-8B8A47C5BA76%7D&MenuLinkID=%7BA54FA022-17E2-483C-B937-DEC8B8964C33%7D |archive-date=March 4, 2016}}</ref>

[[File:Closeup of copper rivet on jeans.jpg|thumb|left|Copper [[rivet]]s for reinforcing pockets are a characteristic feature of blue jeans.]]
By the 17th century, jean was a crucial textile for working-class people in Northern Italy. This is seen in a series of genre paintings from around the 17th century attributed to an artist now referred to as the Master of the Blue Jeans.<ref name="Gruber_2010"/>{{rp|page=10}} The ten paintings depict impoverished scenes with lower-class figures wearing a fabric that looks like denim. The fabric would have been Genoese jean, which was cheaper. [[Genre painting]] came to prominence in the late 16th century, and the non-nobility subject matter in all ten paintings places them among others that portray similar scenes.<ref>{{cite book |author-last=Welch |author-first=Evelyn |title=Shopping in the Renaissance: Consumer Cultures in Italy 1400–1600 |date=2005 |publisher=Yale University Press |location=New Haven |page=44}}</ref>

Dungaree was mentioned for the first time in the 17th century, when it was referred to as cheap, coarse thick cotton cloth, often colored blue but sometimes white, worn by impoverished people in what was then a region of [[Bombay]], India a dockside village called Dongri. This cloth was "dungri" in [[Hindi]]. Dungri was exported to England and used for manufacturing of cheap, robust working clothes. In English, the word "dungri" became pronounced as "dungaree".<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.historyofjeans.com/jeans-history/history-of-dungaree-fabric/ |title=Origin and History of Dungaree Fabric |author-last=William |author-first=Carrie |date=September 3, 2017 |publisher=Historyofjeans.com |access-date=October 28, 2015 |archive-date=November 25, 2015 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20151125084250/http://www.historyofjeans.com/jeans-history/history-of-dungaree-fabric/ |url-status=live }}</ref>{{Relevance inline|date=February 2020|Dungaree paragraph}}

=== Rivets ===
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The term ''jeans'' appears first in 1795, when a Swiss banker by the name [[Jean-Gabriel Eynard]] and his brother Jacques went to Genoa and both were soon heading a flourishing commercial concern. In 1800 [[Massena]]'s troops entered the town and Jean-Gabriel was entrusted with their supply. In particular he furnished them with uniforms cut from blue cloth called "bleu de Genes" whence later derives the famous garment known worldwide as "blue jeans".<ref name="Sullivan_2006"/>

[[Levi Strauss]], as a young man in 1851, went from Germany to New York to join his older brothers who ran a goods store. In 1853, he moved to San Francisco to open his own dry goods business. [[Jacob Davis (inventor)|Jacob Davis]] was a tailor who often bought bolts of cloth from the [[Levi Strauss & Co]]. wholesale house. In 1872, Davis wrote to Strauss asking to partner with him to patent and sell clothing reinforced with [[rivet]]s.<ref name="Downey_2007">{{cite web |author-last=Downey |author-first=Lynn |date=2007 |publisher=official Levi Strauss & Co. historian |url=http://eled3140spring2014.wikispaces.com/file/view/History-Denim.pdf |title=A Short History of Denim |access-date=June 2, 2014 |archive-date=August 9, 2014 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140809162800/http://eled3140spring2014.wikispaces.com/file/view/History-Denim.pdf |url-status=live }}</ref> The copper rivets were to reinforce the points of stress, such as pocket corners and at the bottom of the button fly. Strauss accepted Davis's offer,<ref>Wagman-Gellar, Marlene (2010). [https://books.google.com/books?id=IvRg_38ToLQC&pg=PT17 ''Eureka!: The Surprising Stories Behind the Ideas That Shaped the World''], Eureka #3 (1871) (unpaginated). Penguin Group (USA), Inc. Retrieved October 2, 2011.</ref> and the two men received US patent No. 139,121 for an "Improvement in Fastening Pocket-Openings" on May 20, 1873.<ref>{{US patent|139121}}</ref>
[[File:Photo étiquette Levi's 501.jpg|thumb|The classic label for Levi 501 jeans]]

Davis and Strauss experimented with different fabrics. An early attempt was brown [[cotton duck]], a bottom-weight fabric.{{efn|Bottom weight fabric is a heavier fabric suitable for pants or skirts (a.k.a. bottoms). Not necessarily a thick or heavy fabric but heavier than something that would be used to make a blouse or shirt.}} Finding denim a more suitable material for work-pants, they began using it to manufacture their riveted pants. The denim used was produced by an American manufacturer. Popular legend incorrectly states that it was imported from Nîmes. A popular myth is that Strauss initially sold brown canvas pants to miners, later dyed them blue, turned to using denim, and only after Davis wrote to him, added rivets.<ref name="Downey_2007"/>

Initially, Strauss's jeans were simply sturdy trousers worn by [[working class|factory workers]], miners, farmers, and cattlemen throughout the North American West.<ref>{{cite journal |author-last=Hobson |author-first=John |date=July 1, 2013 |title=To die for? The health and safety of fast fashion |journal=Occupational Medicine |language=en |volume=63 |issue=5 |pages=317–319 |doi=10.1093/occmed/kqt079 |pmid=23837074 |issn=0962-7480 |doi-access=free}}</ref><ref>{{cite news |url=http://www.motherearthnews.com/nature-and-environment/history-of-blue-jeans-zmaz90jazshe |title=A History Of Blue Jeans: From Miners' Wear to American Classic |work=Mother Earth News |access-date=March 17, 2017 |language=en |archive-date=March 16, 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170316055105/http://www.motherearthnews.com/nature-and-environment/history-of-blue-jeans-zmaz90jazshe |url-status=live }}</ref> During this period, men's jeans had the [[Fly (clothing)|fly]] down the front, whereas women's jeans had the fly down the left side.<ref>{{cite news |url=http://www.livingneworleans.com/?p=11550 |title=Style: August 2015 |work=New Orleans Living Magazine |access-date=March 17, 2017 |language=en-US |archive-date=March 17, 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170317144125/http://www.livingneworleans.com/?p=11550 |url-status=live }}</ref> When [[Levi Strauss & Co.]] patented the modern, mass-produced prototype in 1873, there were two pockets in the front and a patch pocket on the back right reinforced with copper rivets.<ref name="Sullivan_2006"/> The small riveted watch pocket was first added by Levi Strauss to their jeans in the late 1870s.<ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.insider.com/small-pocket-pants-jeans-watch-2018-03 |title=Small pocket on your pants and jeans: Here's what it's for – Insider |website=[[Insider.com]] |access-date=April 30, 2020 |archive-date=October 26, 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20231026064304/https://www.insider.com/small-pocket-pants-jeans-watch-2018-03 |url-status=live }}</ref>

===20th century evolution===
In 1901, Levi Strauss added the back left pocket to their 501 model.<ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.levistrauss.com/2017/01/12/pockets-full-history/ |title=Pockets Full of History – Levi Strauss & Co |date=January 12, 2017 |access-date=April 30, 2020 |archive-date=June 19, 2020 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200619161152/https://www.levistrauss.com/2017/01/12/pockets-full-history/ |url-status=live }}</ref> This created the now familiar and industry-standard five-pocket configuration with two large pockets and small watch pocket in front with two pockets on the rear.

The popularity of "waist overalls", as jeans were sometimes called, expanded during [[World War II]].<ref>{{cite book | last=Schellinger | first=A. | title=Aircraft Nose Art: American, French and British Imagery and Its Influences from World War I through the Vietnam War | publisher=McFarland, Incorporated, Publishers | year=2016 | isbn=978-1-4766-1932-3 | url=https://books.google.com/books?id=oV7TCwAAQBAJ&pg=PA82 | access-date=January 29, 2024 | page=82}}</ref> By the 1960s, both men's and women's jeans had the [[zipper]] down the front. Historic photographs indicate that in the decades before they became a staple of fashion, jeans generally fit quite loosely, much like a pair of [[overall|bib overalls]] without the bib. Indeed, until 1960, Levi Strauss called its flagship product "waist overalls" rather than "jeans".

After [[James Dean]] popularized them in the movie ''[[Rebel Without a Cause]]'', wearing jeans became a symbol of youth rebellion during the 1950s.<ref>{{cite news |author-first1=Lauren |author-last1=Cochrane |author-first2=Helen |author-last2=Seamons |url=https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/fashion-blog/2014/apr/18/james-dean-an-enduring-influence-on-modern-fashion |title=James Dean: an enduring influence on modern fashion &#124; Fashion |newspaper=[[The Guardian]] |access-date=October 28, 2015 |archive-date=September 23, 2015 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150923180248/http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/fashion-blog/2014/apr/18/james-dean-an-enduring-influence-on-modern-fashion |url-status=live }}</ref><ref>[[Anna Schober|Schober, Anna]] (2001). Blue Jeans. Vom Leben in Stoffen und Bildern. Frankfurt/ New York: Campus.</ref> During the 1960s, the wearing of jeans became more acceptable, and by the 1970s it had become general fashion in the United States for casual wear.<ref name="Smith_2003">{{cite book |author-last=Smith |author-first=Nancy MacDonell |title=The Classic Ten: poella grande y gruesa The True Story of the Little Black Dress and Nine Other Fashion Favorites |date=2003 |publisher=Penguin |isbn=978-0-14-200356-5 |page=42 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=hCap5dsIJiAC&pg=PT42 |access-date=January 13, 2011 |archive-date=October 26, 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211026073749/https://books.google.com/books?id=hCap5dsIJiAC&pg=PT42 |url-status=live }}</ref> In Japan in 1977, a professor of [[Osaka University]] Philip Karl Pehda chastised a female student wearing jeans in the classroom. Then he was protested by the students, and a controversy arose in the country.<ref>{{cite news |url=https://mmis.hkpl.gov.hk/coverpage/-/coverpage/view?_coverpage_WAR_mmisportalportlet_hsf=%E7%89%9B%E4%BB%94%E8%A4%B2&_coverpage_WAR_mmisportalportlet_actual_q=%28%20verbatim_dc.collection%3A%28%22Old%5C%20HK%5C%20Newspapers%22%29%20%29%20AND+%28%20%28%20allTermsMandatory%3A%28true%29%20OR+all_dc.title%3A%28%E7%89%9B%E4%BB%94%E8%A4%B2%29%20OR+all_dc.creator%3A%28%E7%89%9B%E4%BB%94%E8%A4%B2%29%20OR+all_dc.contributor%3A%28%E7%89%9B%E4%BB%94%E8%A4%B2%29%20OR+all_dc.subject%3A%28%E7%89%9B%E4%BB%94%E8%A4%B2%29%20OR+fulltext%3A%28%E7%89%9B%E4%BB%94%E8%A4%B2%29%20OR+all_dc.description%3A%28%E7%89%9B%E4%BB%94%E8%A4%B2%29%20%29%20%29&_coverpage_WAR_mmisportalportlet_sort_field=score&p_r_p_-1078056564_c=QF757YsWv5%2BaFKLr9PBvgILoEa3mihLU&_coverpage_WAR_mmisportalportlet_o=11&_coverpage_WAR_mmisportalportlet_sort_order=desc |title=女生七嘴八舌嚷「解放」 老教授硬是不准入課堂 |language=zh |date=May 27, 1977 |work=The Kung Sheung Daily News |access-date=February 25, 2019 |archive-date=March 6, 2019 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190306044425/https://mmis.hkpl.gov.hk/coverpage/-/coverpage/view?_coverpage_WAR_mmisportalportlet_hsf=%E7%89%9B%E4%BB%94%E8%A4%B2&_coverpage_WAR_mmisportalportlet_actual_q=%28%20verbatim_dc.collection%3A%28%22Old%5C%20HK%5C%20Newspapers%22%29%20%29%20AND+%28%20%28%20allTermsMandatory%3A%28true%29%20OR+all_dc.title%3A%28%E7%89%9B%E4%BB%94%E8%A4%B2%29%20OR+all_dc.creator%3A%28%E7%89%9B%E4%BB%94%E8%A4%B2%29%20OR+all_dc.contributor%3A%28%E7%89%9B%E4%BB%94%E8%A4%B2%29%20OR+all_dc.subject%3A%28%E7%89%9B%E4%BB%94%E8%A4%B2%29%20OR+fulltext%3A%28%E7%89%9B%E4%BB%94%E8%A4%B2%29%20OR+all_dc.description%3A%28%E7%89%9B%E4%BB%94%E8%A4%B2%29%20%29%20%29&_coverpage_WAR_mmisportalportlet_sort_field=score&p_r_p_-1078056564_c=QF757YsWv5%2BaFKLr9PBvgILoEa3mihLU&_coverpage_WAR_mmisportalportlet_o=11&_coverpage_WAR_mmisportalportlet_sort_order=desc |url-status=live }}</ref><ref>{{cite news |url=https://www.news-postseven.com/archives/20110409_17067.html |title=大阪大学講師 過去にジーンズ姿の女子大生の受講を拒否 |date=April 9, 2011 |language=ja |work=NEWSポストセブン |access-date=October 9, 2020 |archive-date=June 30, 2013 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130630025326/http://www.news-postseven.com/archives/20110409_17067.html |url-status=live }}</ref>

Examples of intentional denim distressing strictly to make them more fashionable can be seen as early as 1935 in Vogue's June issue.<ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.vice.com/en/article/de-nimes-000413-v20n2/ |title=De Nimes |website=vice.com |date=March 11, 2013 |access-date=May 30, 2017 |archive-date=October 26, 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20231026064306/https://www.vice.com/en/article/5gw8dd/de-nimes-000413-v20n2 |url-status=live }}</ref>  Michael Belluomo, editor of ''Sportswear International Magazine'', Oct/Nov 1987, p.&nbsp;45, wrote that in 1965, Limbo, a boutique in the New York East Village, was "the first retailer to wash a new pair of jeans to get a used, worn effect, and the idea became a hit." He continued, "[Limbo] hired East Village artists to embellish the jeans with patches, decals, and other touches, and sold them for $200." In the early 1980s the denim industry introduced the [[Stonewashed jeans|stone-washing]] technique developed by GWG also known as "Great Western Garment Co." Donald Freeland of [[Edmonton, Alberta]], pioneered the method,<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.levisbluejeans.com/Numbers/welcome.htm |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090508055136/http://www.levisbluejeans.com/Numbers/welcome.htm |url-status=dead |archive-date=May 8, 2009 |title=Levi's By the Numbers (Men's) |publisher=Worldflow Knowledge |access-date=December 31, 2010}}</ref> which helped to bring denim to a larger and more versatile market. Acceptance of jeans continued through the 1980s and 1990s. Originally a utilitarian garment, jeans became a common fashion choice in the second half of the 20th century.<ref>{{cite web |title=Jean genie: The denim evolution |url=http://www.bbc.com/culture/story/20150401-jean-genie-the-denim-evolution |author-first=Katya |author-last=Foreman |date=April 1, 2015 |access-date=May 29, 2016 |archive-date=April 25, 2016 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160425113743/http://www.bbc.com/culture/story/20150401-jean-genie-the-denim-evolution |url-status=live }}</ref>

In the early 21st century, ''[[Details (magazine)|Details]] Men's Style Manual'' devoted a chapter to jeans, saying, "Now that jeans have become more acceptable cocktail-hour attire, you should probably own more than one pair." Calling Levi's 501s "an icon from the moment they were introduced," and "the quintessential pair of jeans," the guidebook calls the standard straight leg design, "a classic clean-cut ''[[American Graffiti]]'' look."<ref>{{cite encyclopedia |editor-last= Peres|editor-first= Daniel|editor-link= Dan Peres|title= Jeans|encyclopedia= Details Men's Style Manual|year= 2007|last= |first= |publisher= Gotham Books|location= New York|isbn= 9781592403288|pages= 132–139}}</ref>