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== History == ===Early frozen desserts=== The origins of frozen desserts are obscure, although several accounts exist about their history. Some sources say the history of ice cream begins in [[Persia]] in 550 BC.<ref name="auto">{{Cite book|last=Marks|first=Gil|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=gFK_yx7Ps7cC&q=sorbet+originated+in+persia&pg=PT593|title=Encyclopedia of Jewish Food|date=2010-11-17|publisher=HMH|isbn=978-0-544-18631-6|language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.icecreamhistory.net/frozen-dessert-history/who-invented-ice-cream/|title=Who Invented Ice Cream? - Ice Cream Inventor|website=www.icecreamhistory.net|language=en|access-date=2018-08-31|quote=History of ice creams begun around 500 BCE in the Persian Empire where ice was used in combination with grape juices, fruits, and other flavors to produce very expensive and hard to produce summertime treats.}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=IJCVgTGfxf0C&q=earliest+ice+cream+persian+empire&pg=PT60|title=Book of Firsts|publisher=RW Press|isbn=9781909284296|language=en|quote=c. 550-330 BC, First mention of flavoured snow or ice : during the Persian Empire}}</ref> A [[Cookbook#History|Roman cookbook]] dating back to the 1st century includes recipes for sweet desserts that are sprinkled with snow,<ref name=rsc/> and there are Persian records from the 2nd century for sweetened drinks chilled with ice.<ref name=rsc/> {{transliteration|ja|[[Kakigōri]]}} is a Japanese dessert made with ice and flavoured syrup. The origins of {{transliteration|ja|kakigōri}} date back to the [[Heian period]] in Japanese history, when blocks of ice saved during the colder months would be shaved and served with sweet syrup to the Japanese aristocracy during the summer.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.scmp.com/news/asia/east-asia/article/3023286/nice-ice-baby-whats-those-pricey-kakigori-shaved-ice-desserts|title=Nice ice, baby: what's in those pricier Japanese shaved ice desserts|date=18 August 2019|website=South China Morning Post|language=en|access-date=8 April 2020|archive-date=22 May 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200522050531/https://www.scmp.com/news/asia/east-asia/article/3023286/nice-ice-baby-whats-those-pricey-kakigori-shaved-ice-desserts|url-status=live}}</ref> {{transliteration|ja|Kakigōri}}'s origin is referred to in ''[[The Pillow Book]]'', a book of observations written by [[Sei Shōnagon]], who served the Imperial Court during the Heian period.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.worldhistory.org/The_Pillow_Book/|title=The Pillow Book|website=[[World History Encyclopedia]]|access-date=8 April 2020|archive-date=13 April 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210413143109/https://www.worldhistory.org/The_Pillow_Book/|url-status=live}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.staradvertiser.com/2019/09/26/news/natural-ice-becoming-popular-source-for-shaved-frozen-treat/|title=Natural ice becoming popular source for shaved frozen treat|first1=Nao|last1=Yako|date=26 September 2019|website=Honolulu Star-Advertiser|language=en-US|access-date=9 April 2020|archive-date=17 August 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220817024609/https://www.staradvertiser.com/2019/09/26/news/natural-ice-becoming-popular-source-for-shaved-frozen-treat/|url-status=live}}</ref> The earliest known written process to artificially make ice is known not from culinary texts, but the 13th-century writings of Syrian historian [[Ibn Abi Usaybi'a]] in his book “Kitab Uyun al-anba fi tabaqat-al-atibba“ (Book of Sources of Information on the Classes of Physicians) concerning medicine in which Ibn Abi Usaybi'a attributes the process to an even older author, Ibn Bakhtawayhi, of whom nothing is known.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Weir |first1=Caroline |last2=Weir |first2= Robin |title=Ice Creams, Sorbets & Gelati:The Definitive Guide |date=2010 |page=217}}</ref> Ice cream production became easier with the discovery of the [[endothermic]] effect.<ref name=ocss>{{cite book |editor-last=Goldstein |editor-first=Darra |title=The Oxford Companion to Sugar and Sweets |date=2015}}</ref> Prior to this, cream could be chilled easily but not frozen. The addition of salt lowered the melting point of ice, drawing heat from the cream and allowing it to freeze. ===Early modern=== [[File:Matkakulfi.jpg|thumb|right|[[Kulfi]] in a [[Matki (earthen pot)|matka pot]] from India]] In the 16th century, the [[Mughal Empire]] used relays of horsemen to bring ice from the [[Hindu Kush]] to its capital, [[Delhi]], used to create [[kulfi]], a popular frozen dairy dessert from the Indian subcontinent often described as traditional Indian ice cream.<ref name="ref55yozaq">{{Citation | title=Frozen Desserts: The Definitive Guide to Making Ice Creams, Ices, Sorbets, Gelati, and Other Frozen Delights | author=Caroline Liddell, Robin Weir | date=15 July 1996 | publisher=Macmillan, 1996 | isbn=978-0-312-14343-5 | url=https://books.google.com/books?id=GCv8bPNMTNUC | quote=Kulfi is the traditional Indian ice cream and has a strongly characteristic cooked-milk flavor and dense icy texture.{{nbsp}}[...] The basis of making kulfi is to reduce a large volume of milk down to a very small concentrated amount...}}</ref>{{better source|date=January 2024}} === Europe === The technique of freezing was not known from any European sources prior to the 16th century.<ref name=ocss/> During the 16th century, authors made reference to the refrigerant effect that happened when salt was added to ice. By the latter part of the 17th century sorbets and ice creams were made using this process.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Day |first=Ivan |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/428816114 |title=Cooking in Europe, 1650-1850 |date=2009 |publisher=Greenwood Press |isbn=978-0-313-34625-5 |location=Westport, Conn. |oclc=428816114}}</ref> Ice cream's spread throughout Europe is sometimes attributed to Moorish traders, but more often [[Marco Polo]]. Though it is not mentioned in any of his writings, Polo is often credited with introducing [[sorbet]]-style desserts to Italy after learning of them during his travels to China.<ref name=weir/> According to a legend, the Italian duchess [[Catherine de' Medici]] introduced flavoured sorbet ices to France when she brought Italian chefs with her to France upon marrying the [[Duke of Orléans]] ([[Henry II of France]]) in 1533.<ref name="Cool">{{cite book |last=Powell |first=Marilyn |year=2005 |title=Cool: The Story of Ice Cream |url=https://archive.org/details/coolstoryoficecr0000powe |location=[[Toronto]] |publisher=Penguin Canada |isbn=978-0-14-305258-6 |oclc=59136553 |url-access=registration }}</ref><ref name="CIA">{{cite book |last=Migoya |first=Francisco J. |title=Frozen Desserts |publisher=The Culinary Institute of America |year=2008 |isbn=978-0470118665 |pages=2}}</ref> No Italian chefs were present in France during the Medici period,<ref>{{Cite web |title=La table de la Renaissance. Le mythe italien |url=https://core.ac.uk/reader/161230480 |access-date=2 May 2023 |archive-date=27 April 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230427172605/https://core.ac.uk/reader/161230480 |url-status=live }}</ref> and ice cream already existed in France before de Medici was born.<ref name="Backer-2011">{{Cite journal |last=Backer |first=Kellen |date=June 2011 |title=Jeri Quinzio. Of Sugar and Snow: A History of Ice Cream Making. Berkeley, CA: University of California Press, 2009. xvi + 279 pp. ISBN 978-0-520-24861-8, 16.95 (paperback). |url=https://www.cambridge.org/core/journals/enterprise-and-society/article/abs/jeri-quinzio-of-sugar-and-snow-a-history-of-ice-cream-making-berkeley-ca-university-of-california-press-2009-xvi-279-pp-isbn-9780520248618-3500-cloth-isbn-9780520265912-1695-paperback/171B0CCD2FE01C3B49649BA64310120E |journal=Enterprise & Society |language=en |volume=12 |issue=2 |pages=453–455 |doi=10.1093/es/khq071 |issn=1467-2227 |access-date=2 May 2023 |archive-date=27 April 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230427161045/https://www.cambridge.org/core/journals/enterprise-and-society/article/abs/jeri-quinzio-of-sugar-and-snow-a-history-of-ice-cream-making-berkeley-ca-university-of-california-press-2009-xvi-279-pp-isbn-9780520248618-3500-cloth-isbn-9780520265912-1695-paperback/171B0CCD2FE01C3B49649BA64310120E |url-status=live }}</ref> One hundred years later, [[Charles I of England]] was reportedly so impressed by the "frozen snow" that he offered his own ice cream maker a lifetime [[pension]] in return for keeping the formula secret, so that ice cream could be a [[royal prerogative]].<ref>{{cite web |last=Goff |first=H. Douglas |url=https://www.uoguelph.ca/foodscience/book-page/ice-cream-history-and-folklore |title=Ice Cream History and Folklore |work=Dairy Science and Technology Education Series |publisher=[[University of Guelph]] |access-date=9 August 2008 |archive-date=13 November 2014 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20141113051723/https://www.uoguelph.ca/foodscience/book-page/ice-cream-history-and-folklore |url-status=live }}</ref> There is no evidence to support these legends.<ref name=weir>{{cite book |last1=Weir |first1=Caroline |last2=Weir |first2= Robin |title=Ice Creams, Sorbets & Gelati:The Definitive Guide |date=2010 |page=9}}</ref><ref name=rsc>{{cite book |last=Clarke |first=Chris |title=Science of Ice Cream |year=2004 |url=https://archive.org/details/scienceicecream00clar_002 |url-access=limited |publisher=Royal Society of chemistry |page=[https://archive.org/details/scienceicecream00clar_002/page/n21 4]}}</ref> ==== France ==== In 1665, the {{lang|fr|Catalogue des Marchandises rares...}}, edited in [[Montpellier]] by Jean Fargeon,<ref>{{Cite book |last=Fargeon |first=Jean |title=Catalogue des marchandises rares…, op. cit., p. 16., op. cit., p. 16..}}</ref> listed a type of frozen sorbet. While the composition of this sorbet is not provided, Fargeon specified that it was consumed frozen using a container that was plunged into a mixture of ice and saltpetre. These sorbets were transported in pots made of clay and sold for three livres per pound. According to {{lang|fr|L'Isle des Hermaphrodites}},<ref>{{Cite book |last=Thomas |first=A. |title=L'Isle des Hermaphrodites, op. cit., p. 108. Planhol X. de, L'eau de neige…, op. cit., p. 168-172 et 179-181.}}</ref> the practice of cooling drinks with ice and snow had already emerged in [[Paris]], particularly in the court, during the 16th century. The narrator notes that his hosts stored ice and snow, which they later added to their wine. This practice slowly progressed during the reign of [[Louis XIII]] and was likely a necessary step towards the creation of ice cream.<ref>{{Cite book |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1366226853 |title=La glace et ses usages. |date=1999 |editor=Aline Rousselle |isbn=978-2-35412-382-6 |location=Perpignan |publisher=Presses universitaires de Perpignan |oclc=1366226853}}</ref> In 1682, {{lang|fr|Le Nouveau confiturier françois}} provided a recipe for a specific type of ice cream, called {{lang|fr|"neige de fleur d'orange"}}.<ref name="Backer-2011"/> In 1686, Italian [[Procopio Cutò|Francesco dei Coltelli]] opened an ice cream café in Paris, and the product became so popular that during the next 50 years, another 250 cafés opened in Paris.<ref>{{cite book|last=Visser|first=Margaret|title=Much Depends on Dinner|publisher=Grove Atlantic Press|year=1999|edition=illustrated|page=297|isbn=978-0-8021-3651-0|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=iijF4QSwPssC|access-date=13 May 2009}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.procope.com/|title=Restaurant Le Procope|publisher=procope.com|language=it|access-date=13 May 2009|archive-date=9 March 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180309041331/http://www.procope.com/|url-status=live}}</ref> The first recipe in [[French language|French]] for flavoured ices appears in 1674, in [[Nicholas Lemery]]'s {{lang|fr|Recueil de curiositéz rares et nouvelles de plus admirables effets de la nature}}.<ref name="Cool" /> Recipes for {{lang|it|sorbetti}} saw publication in the 1694 edition of Antonio Latini's {{lang|it|Lo Scalco alla Moderna}} (The Modern Steward).<ref name="Cool" /> Recipes for flavoured ices begin to appear in François Massialot's {{lang|fr|Nouvelle Instruction pour les Confitures, les Liqueurs, et les Fruits}}, starting with the 1692 edition. Massialot's recipes result in a coarse, pebbly texture. Latini claims that the results of his recipes should have the fine consistency of sugar and snow.<ref name="Cool" /> ==== England ==== The first recorded mention of ice cream in England was in 1671. [[Elias Ashmole]] described the dishes served at the Feast of St George at Windsor for Charles II in 1671 and included "one plate of ice cream".<ref name=":1">{{Cite book |last=Davidson |first=Alan |author-link=Alan Davidson (food writer) |title-link=The Oxford Companion to Food |title=The Oxford Companion to Food |date=2014 |editor=Tom Jaine |others=Illustrated by Soun Vannithone |isbn=978-0-19-967733-7 |edition=3rd |publisher=Oxford University Press |oclc=890807357 |page=403}}</ref> The only table at the banquet with ice cream on it was that of the King.<ref name=":2">{{Cite journal | last=Stallings | first=W.S. Jr. |date=November 1979 |title=Ice Cream and Water Ices in 17th and 18th Century England |journal=Petit Propos Culinaires |issue=3| pages=1–32 | doi=10.1558/ppc.29570 }}</ref> The first recipe for ice cream in English was published in ''[[Mrs. Mary Eales's Receipts]],'' in [[London]] in 1718:<ref>{{cite book |first=Mary |last=Eales |year=1985 |title=Mrs. Mary Eales's Receipts |orig-year=1718 |isbn=0-907325-25-4 |publisher=Prospect Books |location=London |oclc=228661650|title-link=Mrs. Mary Eales's Receipts }}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.gutenberg.org/files/20735/20735-h/20735-h.htm#ice_cream|title=Mrs. Mary Eales's Receipts|website=www.gutenberg.org|access-date=29 March 2015|archive-date=24 September 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150924205032/http://www.gutenberg.org/files/20735/20735-h/20735-h.htm#ice_cream|url-status=live}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book |last=Grace |first=Maria |title=How Jane Austen Kept her Cool - An A to Z History of Georgian Ice Cream |publisher=White Soup Press |year=2018 |isbn=9780998093796 |location=Great Britain}}</ref><ref name=":1" /> [[File:Les Glaces.jpg|thumb|right|Noblewomen eating ice cream in a French caricature, 1801]] {{blockquote| To ice cream. Take Tin Ice-Pots, fill them with any Sort of Cream you like, either plain or sweeten'd, or Fruit in it; shut your Pots very close; to six Pots you must allow eighteen or twenty Pound of Ice, breaking the Ice very small; there will be some great Pieces, which lay at the Bottom and Top: You must have a Pail, and lay some Straw at the Bottom; then lay in your Ice, and put in amongst it a Pound of Bay-Salt; set in your Pots of Cream, and lay Ice and Salt between every Pot, that they may not touch; but the Ice must lie round them on every Side; lay a good deal of Ice on the Top, cover the Pail with Straw, set it in a Cellar where no Sun or Light comes, it will be froze in four Hours, but it may stand longer; then take it out just as you use it; hold it in your Hand and it will slip out. When you wou'd freeze any Sort of Fruit, either Cherries, Raspberries, Currants, or Strawberries, fill your Tin-Pots with the Fruit, but as hollow as you can; put to them Lemmonade, made with Spring-Water and Lemmon-Juice sweeten'd; put enough in the Pots to make the Fruit hang together, and put them in Ice as you do Cream.|''Mrs. Mary Eale's Receipts'' (1718)}} [[File:Art of Cookery frontispiece.jpg|thumb|left|Title page to ''The Art of Cookery'' by [[Hannah Glasse]]]] The 1751 edition of ''[[The Art of Cookery made Plain and Easy]]'' by [[Hannah Glasse]] includes a recipe for ice cream: "H. GLASSE Art of Cookery (ed. 4) 333 (heading) To make Ice Cream...set it [the cream] into the larger Bason. Fill it with Ice, and a Handful of Salt."<ref name=oed>''[[Oxford English Dictionary]]'', 3nd ed. 2012 [https://www.oed.com/view/Entry/90780 ''s.v.'' 'ice cream']</ref> {{lang|fr|L'Art de Bien Faire les Glaces d'Office}} by M. Emy, in 1768, was a cookbook devoted to recipes for flavoured ices and ice cream.<ref name="Cool" /> In 1769 Domenico Negri, an Italian confectioner, founded a business in [[Berkeley Square]] London which would become famous for its ice creams.<ref name=":3">{{Cite book |last=David |first=Elizabeth |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/59649098 |title=Harvest of the cold months. |date=1996 |publisher=Penguin |isbn=0-14-017641-1 |location=London |oclc=59649098}}</ref> His shop was at the Sign of the Pineapple (an emblem used by confectioners) and his trade card said he sold "All Sorts of English, French and Italian wet and dry'd Sweet Meats, Cedrati and Bergamot Chips, Naples Diavoloni, All sorts of Baskets & Cakes, fine and Common Sugar plums", but most importantly, "all Sorts of Ice, Fruits and creams in the best Italian manner."<ref name=":3" /> In 1789 Frederick Nutt, who served an apprenticeship at Negri's establishment, first published ''The Complete Confectioner''. The book had 31 recipes for ice creams, some with fresh fruit, others with jams, and some using fruit syrups. Flavours included ginger, chocolate, brown breadcrumbs and one flavoured with Parmesan cheese.<ref name=":3" /><ref>{{Cite book |last=Nutt |first=Frederick |date=25 July 2022 |title=The Complete Confectioner or The Whole Art of Confectionary Made Easy: Also Receipts for Home-made Wines, Cordials, French and Italian Liqueurs &c |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=WgMqAAAAYAAJ |url-status=live |publisher=S. Leigh and Baldwin Cradock, and Joy |publication-date=1819 |access-date=19 March 2023 |archive-date=6 April 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230406094251/https://books.google.com/books?id=WgMqAAAAYAAJ }}</ref> === North America === An early North American reference to ice cream is from 1744: "Among the rarities{{nbsp}}[...] was some fine ice cream, which, with the strawberries and milk, eat most deliciously."<ref>1744 in ''Pennsylvania Magazine of History & Biography'' (1877) '''1''':126</ref><ref name=oed/> It was served by the lady of Governor Bland.{{Citation needed|date=July 2022}} Who brought ice cream to the United States first is unknown.<ref>{{Cite web |date=11 July 2012 |title=Explore the History of Ice Cream {{!}} The History Kitchen |url=https://www.pbs.org/food/the-history-kitchen/explore-the-delicious-history-of-ice-cream/ |access-date=4 May 2023 |website=PBS Food |language=en-US |archive-date=17 July 2012 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120717103238/https://www.pbs.org/food/the-history-kitchen/explore-the-delicious-history-of-ice-cream/ |url-status=live }}</ref> Confectioners sold ice cream at their shops in [[New York City|New York]] and other cities during the colonial era. [[Benjamin Franklin]], [[George Washington]], and [[Thomas Jefferson]] were known to have regularly eaten and served ice cream. Records, kept by a merchant from Chatham street, New York, show George Washington spending approximately $200 on ice cream in the summer of 1790. The same records show president Thomas Jefferson having an 18-step recipe for ice cream.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.idfa.org/news-views/media-kits/ice-cream/the-history-of-ice-cream|title=The History of Ice Cream – International Dairy Foods Association|website=www.idfa.org|access-date=14 March 2018|archive-date=19 February 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150219043336/http://www.idfa.org/news-views/media-kits/ice-cream/the-history-of-ice-cream|url-status=live}}</ref> Although it is incorrect that Jefferson introduced ice cream to America, as is [[List of common misconceptions|popularly believed]], he did help to introduce [[vanilla ice cream]].<ref name="Myers 2007">{{cite book |last=Myers |first=Richard L. |url=https://archive.org/details/100mostimportant0000myer |title=The 100 Most Important Chemical Compounds: A Reference Guide |publisher=Greenwood Press |year=2007 |isbn=978-0313337581 |edition=1. publ. |location=Westport, Conn. |page=[https://archive.org/details/100mostimportant0000myer/page/292 292] |url-access=registration}}</ref><ref>{{Cite news |date=August–September 2015 |title=Myths of Monticello |url=https://gardenandgun.com/articles/myths-of-monticello/ |access-date=June 24, 2024 |work=[[Garden & Gun]]}}</ref> [[First Lady of the United States|First Lady]] [[Dolley Madison]], wife of U.S. President [[James Madison]], served ice cream at her husband's [[United States presidential inaugural balls|Inaugural Ball]] in 1813.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.idfa.org/news-views/headline-news/article/2012/06/27/when-you-celebrate-independence-day-don%27t-forget-the-ice-cream|title=When You Celebrate Independence Day, Don't Forget the Ice Cream|author=<!--Staff writer(s); no by-line.-->|date=27 June 2012|publisher=International Dairy Foods Association|access-date=29 May 2014|archive-date=24 December 2017|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171224141035/http://www.idfa.org/news-views/headline-news/article/2012/06/27/when-you-celebrate-independence-day-don%27t-forget-the-ice-cream|url-status=live}}</ref> Small-scale hand-cranked ice cream freezers were invented in England by [[Agnes Marshall]] and in America by [[Nancy Maria Donaldson Johnson|Nancy Johnson]] in the 1840s.<ref>{{cite book|page=283|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=lpOqTUucwhUC&q=ice+cream+machine+in+1843+england|title=Cooks and Other People|author=Walker, Harlan|year=1996|publisher=Oxford Symposium|access-date=7 March 2013|isbn = 978-0907325727}}</ref> === Expansion in popularity === [[File:Agnes B Marshall.jpg|thumb|[[Agnes Marshall]], "queen of ices", instrumental in making ice-cream fashionable]] [[File:Children in the Ghetto and the Ice-Cream Man. Chicago Ill. (FRONT).jpeg|thumb|Children in [[Maxwell Street|Chicago]] surround an ice cream vendor in 1909.]] [[File:Sydney markets, by Rex Hazlewood, c. 1911-1916 (9909471825) (2).jpg|thumb|J Podesta, Ice Cream maker's stall, Sydney Markets, c. 1910]] In the Mediterranean, ice cream appears to have been accessible to ordinary people by the mid-18th century.<ref>{{cite journal | doi = 10.1093/pastj/gtt018 | issn = 0031-2746 | issue = 220 | pages = 35–78 | last = Calaresu | first = Melissa | title = Making and Eating Ice Cream in Naples: Rethinking Consumption and Sociability in the Eighteenth Century | journal = Past & Present | date = August 2013 }}</ref> Ice cream became popular and inexpensive in England in the mid-19th century, when Swiss émigré [[Carlo Gatti]] set up the first stand outside [[Charing Cross]] station in 1851. He sold scoops in shells for one penny. Prior to this, ice cream was an expensive treat confined to those with access to an ice house.<ref>{{cite news |first=Nick |last=Stephens |url=http://bordeaux-undiscovered.blogspot.com/2007/03/wine-flavoured-ice-cream.html |title=Wine Flavoured Ice Cream |publisher=Bordeaux-Undiscovered |date=28 March 2007 |access-date=4 January 2009 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110727132607/http://bordeaux-undiscovered.blogspot.com/2007/03/wine-flavoured-ice-cream.html |archive-date=27 July 2011 |url-status=dead }}</ref> Gatti built an 'ice well' to store ice that he cut from [[Regent's Canal]] under a contract with the [[Regent's Canal Company]]. By 1860, he expanded the business and began importing ice on a large scale from Norway. In New Zealand, a newspaper advertisement for ice cream appeared in 1866, claiming to be the first time ice cream was available in [[Wellington]].<ref>{{Cite news|date=27 January 1866|title=Advertisements|volume=XXI|page=5|work=Wellington Independent|issue=2315|url=https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/WI18660127.2.15.1|access-date=10 April 2021|archive-date=10 April 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210410052002/https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/WI18660127.2.15.1|url-status=live}}</ref> Commercial manufacturing was underway in 1875.<ref>{{Cite news|date=17 November 1875|title=Advertisements|volume=XII|page=3|work=Evening Post|issue=119|url=https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/EP18751117.2.17.5|access-date=10 April 2021|archive-date=10 April 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210410051934/https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/EP18751117.2.17.5|url-status=live}}</ref> Ice cream rapidly gained in popularity in New Zealand throughout the 20th century.<ref>{{Cite web|last=Newey|first=Chris|title=The history of ice cream in New Zealand|url=http://www.nzicecream.org.nz/history-nz-1930.htm|access-date=10 April 2021|website=New Zealand Ice Cream Manufacturers Association|archive-date=12 February 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210212043119/http://www.nzicecream.org.nz/history-nz-1930.htm|url-status=live}}</ref> By 2018, exported ice cream products included new flavours such as [[matcha]] to cater to Asian markets.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Situation and Outlook for Primary Industries|url=https://www.mpi.govt.nz/dmsdocument/38930/direct|access-date=10 April 2021|pages=16–17|archive-date=10 April 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210410051934/https://www.mpi.govt.nz/dmsdocument/38930/direct|url-status=live}}</ref> Agnes Marshall, regarded as the "queen of ices" in England, did much to popularize ice cream recipes and make its consumption into a fashionable middle-class pursuit. She wrote four books: ''The Book of Ices'' (1885), ''Mrs. A.B. Marshall's Book of Cookery'' (1888), ''Mrs. A.B. Marshall's Larger Cookery Book of Extra Recipes'' (1891) and ''Fancy Ices'' (1894) and gave public lectures on cooking. She even suggested using liquid nitrogen to make ice cream. [[Ice cream soda]] was invented in the 1870s, adding to ice cream's popularity. The invention of this cold treat is attributed to American Robert Green in 1874, although there is no conclusive evidence to prove his claim. The [[sundae|ice cream sundae]] originated in the late 19th century. Some sources say that the sundae was invented to circumvent [[blue law]]s, which forbade serving sodas on Sunday. Towns claiming to be the birthplace of the sundae include [[Buffalo, New York|Buffalo]], [[Two Rivers, Wisconsin|Two Rivers]], [[Ithaca, New York|Ithaca]], and [[Evanston, Illinois|Evanston]]. Both the [[ice cream cone]] and [[banana split]] became popular in the early 20th century.{{cn|date=December 2024}} The first mention of the cone being used as an edible receptacle for the ice cream is in ''Mrs. A.B. Marshall's Book of Cookery'' of 1888. Her recipe for "Cornet with Cream" said that "the cornets were made with almonds and baked in the oven, not pressed between irons".<ref name="whatscookingamerica.net">{{cite web|url=http://whatscookingamerica.net/History/IceCream/IceCreamCone.htm|title=History of Ice Cream Cone|last=Stradley|first=Linda|publisher=What's Cooking America|access-date=13 May 2008|archive-date=9 May 2008|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080509190148/http://whatscookingamerica.net/History/IceCream/IceCreamCone.htm|url-status=live}}</ref><ref name="historicfood.com">{{cite web|url=http://www.historicfood.com/Ice%20Cream%20Cone.htm|title=An 1807 Ice Cream Cone: Discovery and Evidence|last=Weir|first=Robert|publisher=Historic Food|access-date=13 May 2008|archive-date=17 May 2008|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080517100822/http://www.historicfood.com/Ice%20Cream%20Cone.htm|url-status=live}}</ref> The ice cream cone was popularized in the US at the [[Louisiana Purchase Exposition|1904 World's Fair]] in [[St. Louis Missouri|St. Louis, Missouri]].<ref name="whatscookingamerica.net"/> The history of ice cream in the 20th century is one of great change and increases in availability and popularity. In the United States in the early 20th century, the ice cream soda was a popular treat at the [[soda shop]], the [[soda fountain]], and the [[ice cream parlour]]. During the [[Prohibition in the United States|American Prohibition]], the soda fountain to some extent replaced the outlawed alcohol establishments such as [[Bar (establishment)|bar]]s and saloons. Ice cream became popular throughout the world in the second half of the 20th century after cheap refrigeration became common. There was an explosion of ice cream stores and of flavours and types. Vendors often competed on the basis of variety: [[Howard Johnson's]] restaurants advertised "a world of 28 flavors", and [[Baskin-Robbins]] made its 31 flavours ("one for every day of the month") the cornerstone of its marketing strategy (the company now boasts that it has developed over 1,000 varieties). One important development in the 20th century was the introduction of soft ice cream, which has more air mixed in, thereby reducing costs. The soft ice cream machine fills a cone or dish from a [[Tap (valve)|spigot]]. In the United States, chains such as [[Dairy Queen]], [[Carvel (franchise)|Carvel]], and [[Tastee-Freez]] helped popularize soft-serve ice cream. Baskin-Robbins later incorporated it into their menu. Technological innovations such as these have introduced various food additives into ice cream, most notably the [[Stabilizer (chemistry)|stabilizing agent]] [[gluten]],<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/columnnn/nn030331.html |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20030422233719/http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/columnnn/nn030331.html |archive-date=22 April 2003 |title=Gluten sensitivity more widespread than previously thought |website=Colorado State University Extension |author=Pat Kendall |date=31 March 2003}}</ref> to which some people have an [[gluten-related disorders|intolerance]]. Recent awareness of this issue has prompted a number of manufacturers to start producing gluten-free ice cream.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.nestle.ca/haagen_dazs/en/Company/FAQ/index#Q13 |title=Haagen-Dazs: FAQ – Is Haagen Dazs Gluten Free? |publisher=[[Nestlé]] |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080202224331/http://www.nestle.ca/haagen_dazs/en/Company/FAQ/index#Q13 |archive-date=2 February 2008 }}</ref> The 1980s saw thicker ice creams being sold as "premium" and "super-premium" varieties under brands such as [[Ben & Jerry's]], [[Chocolate Shoppe Ice Cream Company]] and [[Häagen-Dazs]].
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