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==History== [[File:Coulsdon hills and valleys.png|thumb|A topological view of Coulsdon, showing the various hill and valleys.]] The location forms part of the [[North Downs]]. The hills contain chalk and flint. A few [[dry valley]]s with natural underground drainage merge and connect to the main headwater of the [[River Wandle]], as a [[winterbourne (stream)]], so commonly called "the Bourne".<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.surreycc.gov.uk/__data/assets/pdf_file/0010/175447/Geology-of-Surrey-with-diagrams3.pdf|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20140715001321/http://www.surreycc.gov.uk/__data/assets/pdf_file/0010/175447/Geology-of-Surrey-with-diagrams3.pdf|url-status=dead|title=Surrey County Council|archivedate=15 July 2014}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.naturalengland.org.uk/Images/27-upper-north-downs_tcm6-14434.pdf|title=London's Natural Signatures|work=Natural England - Access to Evidence |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110314203935/http://www.naturalengland.org.uk/Images/27-upper-north-downs_tcm6-14434.pdf |archive-date=2011-03-14 |url-status=live}}</ref> Although this breaks onto the level of a few streets when the water table is exceptionally high, the soil is generally dry. The depression and wind gap was a natural route across the Downs for early populations. Fossil records exist from the Pleistocene period (about 4,000,000 years ago).<ref>{{cite thesis| type=PhD |url=https://pure.royalholloway.ac.uk/portal/files/4059178/2011JubyCPhD.pdf|title=London before London: Reconstructing a Palaeolithic Landscape|publisher=[[Royal Holloway]], University of London. Department of Geography|first=Caroline|last=Juby|date=September 2011 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220711131922/https://pure.royalholloway.ac.uk/portal/files/4059178/2011JubyCPhD.pdf |archive-date=2022-07-11 |url-status=live}}</ref> There is evidence of human occupation from the [[Neolithic]] period, [[Iron Age]],<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.english-heritage.org.uk/server/show/ConWebDoc.6646|title= English Heritage|work=english-heritage.org.uk |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090905195855/http://www.english-heritage.org.uk/server/show/ConWebDoc.6646 |archive-date=2009-09-05 |url-status=dead}}</ref><ref name="romanb">Volume 9 of the Bourne Society's Local History Records (1970)</ref> Anglo-Saxon,<ref>{{cite web|url=http://canmore.rcahms.gov.uk/en/site/291649/digital_images/farthing+down/?&sort_typ=archnum&sort_ord=desc&z=0|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20140714225643/http://canmore.rcahms.gov.uk/en/site/291649/digital_images/farthing+down/?&sort_typ=archnum&sort_ord=desc&z=0 |archivedate=14 July 2014 |title=Excavations in the Saxon Cemetery on Farthing Down, Coulsdon. |author=John Wickham Flower|website= canmore.rcahms.gov.uk |url-status=live}}</ref><ref name="flowers" /><ref name="taylor">{{cite journal|last=Hope-Taylor |first=Brian |date=1949 |title=Celtic Agriculture in Surrey |journal=Surrey Archaeological Collections |volume=50 |doi=10.5284/1000221 |url=https://archaeologydataservice.ac.uk/archiveDS/archiveDownload?t=arch-379-1/dissemination/pdf/vol_50/surreyac050_047-072_hope-taylor.pdf}}</ref><ref name =Megalithic>{{cite web|url=http://www.megalithic.co.uk/article.php?sid=14920|title=Farthing Downs|work=The Megalithic Portal |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200801090240/https://www.megalithic.co.uk/article.php?sid=14920 |archive-date=2020-08-01 |url-status=live}}</ref> Bronze Age,<ref>http://archaeologydataservice.ac.uk/archives/view/surreyac/ Surrey Archeological Society. Volume 64. Article "hoard of late bronze age things at crooksbury hill, coulsdon."</ref><ref>http://archaeologydataservice.ac.uk/archives/view/surreyac/ Surrey Archeological Society. Volume 38 . Article "shunaway plantation" 1928. bronze found.</ref> Roman and [[Medieval]].<ref>[http://planning.croydon.gov.uk/DocOnline/38256_3.pdf Croydon Council planning document] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140714212433/http://planning.croydon.gov.uk/DocOnline/38256_3.pdf |date=14 July 2014 }}</ref> In 675, Frithwald, an [[Ealdorman]] and viceroy of King [[Wulfhere of Mercia]], gave land at Cuthraedesdune to [[Chertsey Abbey]].<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.croydon.gov.uk/leisure/parksandopenspaces/parksatoz/bradmore/bghistory |title=London Borough of Croydon : Bradmore Green - Bradmore Green history |access-date=1 July 2014 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140627230649/http://www.croydon.gov.uk/leisure/parksandopenspaces/parksatoz/bradmore/bghistory |archive-date=27 June 2014}}</ref><ref>{{cite book|last=Wheeler |first=Lucy |date=1905 |title=Chertsey Abbey : an existence of the past |publisher=Wells Gardner, Dalton |location=London |isbn=978-0341944041 |url=https://archive.org/details/chertseyabbeyexi00wheeuoft}}</ref><ref>{{cite book|last=Parker |first=Eric |date=1908 |title=Highways and Byways in Surrey |publisher=Macmillan |url=http://www.gutenberg.org/files/28057/28057.txt}}</ref> It appears as ''Colesdone'' in the [[Domesday Book]].<ref>[http://www.gwp.enta.net/surrnames.htm Surrey Domesday Book] {{webarchive |url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070715015325/http://www.gwp.enta.net/surrnames.htm |date=15 July 2007 }}</ref><ref>{{cite web |title=Place: Coulsdon |work=Open Domesday |url=http://www.domesdaymap.co.uk/place/TQ2959/coulsdon/ |archive-url=https://archive.today/20131020165652/http://www.domesdaymap.co.uk/place/TQ2959/coulsdon/ |archive-date=2013-10-20 |url-status=unfit}}</ref> In 1537, the [[Dissolution of the monasteries]] passed ownership to the King. In 1545, [[Henry VIII]] granted two homes with land in Whattingdon and Coulsdon, ''Welcombes'' and ''Lawrences'', to Sir [[John Gresham]], the [[Manorialism|manor]] having been owned by [[Chertsey Abbey]] in the 8th century, when it was recorded as ''Whatindone''.<ref name="malden" /> The Coulsdon Manor was granted or sold in 1553 to various families, including Sir [[Nicholas Carew (courtier)|Nicholas Carew]] (1553), Sir Francis Carew (1557),<ref name=malden/> [[Jerome Weston, 2nd Earl of Portland]], Sir Richard Mason, Sir Edward Darcy, Sir Robert Darcy and Sir Edward Bouverie (see [[William Bouverie, 1st Earl of Radnor|Earl of Radnor]]).<ref name="vch">{{cite web |title=Parishes: Coulsdon Pages 199-205 A History of the County of Surrey: Volume 4. |url=https://www.british-history.ac.uk/vch/surrey/vol4/pp199-205 |website=British History Online |publisher=Victoria County History, 1912 |access-date=28 December 2022}}</ref> From 1782 to 1921, it was owned by three generations of the Byron family, who had already purchased the sub-manor of Hooley.<ref name="malden" /><ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.british-history.ac.uk/vch/surrey/vol4/pp199-205|title=Parishes: Coulsdon|work=british-history.ac.uk |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220914152623/https://www.british-history.ac.uk/vch/surrey/vol4/pp199-205 |archive-date=2022-09-14 |url-status=live}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.oldcoulsdon.co.uk/coulsdon_lords_of_the_manor.htm|title=Coulsdon Lords of the Manor|author=Hugh McCullough|work=oldcoulsdon.co.uk|access-date=1 July 2014|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150924055700/http://www.oldcoulsdon.co.uk/coulsdon_lords_of_the_manor.htm|archive-date=24 September 2015|url-status=dead}}</ref> In 1801, the Byron family moved to live at Hooley House. Then, having sold a large amount of land in 1838 to the 'London to Brighton railway company', they moved from Hooley House to Portnall's Farm. In 1850, Hartley Farm was demolished and Coulsdon Court was built by Thomas Byron. It was said to have been constructed of the last bricks to be made locally at Crossways (at Coulsdon Road, Old Coulsdon).<ref>{{Cite web |url=http://www.hadra.org.uk/Past%20Present%20%26%20Future.pdf |title=Archived copy |access-date=16 January 2019 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160303232322/http://www.hadra.org.uk/Past%20Present%20%26%20Future.pdf |archive-date=3 March 2016 |url-status=dead}}</ref> In 1854, to avoid the court, he adjusted the paths of some local roads, and created a gated drive from the public road. In 1863, Edmund Byron inherited the title. After his use of the [[inclosure act]]s was curtailed when he lost a case in 1877 at the [[Court of Chancery]],<ref>{{Cite web |url=http://www.cnhss.org.uk/archives/Bulletin2008C133.pdf|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20140714113121/http://www.cnhss.org.uk/archives/Bulletin2008C133.pdf|url-status=dead|title=Bulletin of the Croydon Natural History & Scientific Society|archivedate=14 July 2014|website=www.cnhss.org.uk}}</ref><ref>{{cite book|last=Lefevre |first=George |author-link=George Shaw Lefevre, 1st Baron Eversley |date=1910 |title=Commons, Forests and Footpaths. The Story of the Battle during the last Forty-five Years for Public Rights over the Commons, Forests and Footpaths of England and Wales |publisher=Cassell & Co Ltd |location=London}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.alphabetthreat.co.uk/pasttense/text/fences.rtf|title=Down with the Fences|website=alphabetthreat.co.uk|access-date=6 April 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160303225245/http://www.alphabetthreat.co.uk/pasttense/text/fences.rtf|archive-date=3 March 2016|url-status=dead}}</ref> large areas were sold in 1883 to the Corporation of London.<ref>The Times (london, England), Monday, 21 May 1883; pg. 12; Issue 30825.</ref><ref name="rdh">{{Cite web|url=http://www.croydon.gov.uk/leisure/parksandopenspaces/parksatoz/riddlesdown/rdhistory|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20110302201508/http://www.croydon.gov.uk/leisure/parksandopenspaces/parksatoz/riddlesdown/rdhistory|url-status=dead|title=Riddledown History|archivedate=2 March 2011}}</ref><ref name= "col1">The Corporation of London: Its origin, constitution, powers, and duties. City of London (England). Corporation Oxford University Press, 1950.</ref><ref>http://hadra.org.uk/Conservation%20Report.pdf {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140714123127/http://hadra.org.uk/Conservation%20Report.pdf |date=14 July 2014 }} Conservation report</ref> The importance of this event was reported in ''The Times''.<ref>Report on the Dedication Of Coulsdon Commons. The Times (london, England), Monday, 21 May 1883; pg. 12</ref> He also sold and gave away various plots.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.bournesociety.org.uk/bournesoc/24-smitham-bottom-infants-school-smitham.html|title=Plaque 24 - Smitham Bottom Infants School, Smitham|work=bournesociety.org.uk|access-date=1 July 2014|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140517193429/http://www.bournesociety.org.uk/bournesoc/24-smitham-bottom-infants-school-smitham.html|archive-date=17 May 2014|url-status=dead}}</ref> In 1921, Edmund Byron died. The remaining lands owned by the Byrons were sold. Land and manorial rights were passed to the Coulsdon and Purley Urban District Council.<ref>Croydon Council. Local List of Historic Parks and Gardens December 2008 {{cite web |url=http://www.croydon.gov.uk/contents/documents/meetings/806358/609905/2008/2008-12-10/histappa.pdf |title=Archived copy |access-date=1 July 2014 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121119144719/http://www.croydon.gov.uk/contents/documents/meetings/806358/609905/2008/2008-12-10/histappa.pdf |archive-date=19 November 2012 }}</ref> For many centuries, the lands contained several farms and manors and only on the coming of the railway were a few wealthy people from outside the traditional borders attracted to build grand houses, by 19th century descriptions, such as: {{Blockquote|This parish, which is situated on the road from London to Brighton, occupies an elevated position, and commands extensive and varied prospects.|[[Samuel Lewis (publisher)|S. Lewis]]|''A Topographical Dictionary of England'', 1848<ref>Lewis, S. (1848). ''A Topographical Dictionary of England''. London: Samuel Lewis, p.145.</ref>}} Until 1921, the Byron family had largely maintained this tradition, despite sales of earlier land. The sales in the 1860s increased the number of landowners. Most housing in Smitham (Bottom/Valley) and the [[nucleated village|clustered settlement]] of Old Coulsdon, as well as the narrower valley between them, was built in the 80 years from 1890 to 1970. The area developed mixed suburban, and in its centre urban, housing: {{Blockquote|The whole aspect of the parish has been completely transformed during the last twenty years by building. It was a little while ago entirely rural with a few new houses scattered along the line of the railway and up the valley towards Caterham, whence another deep depression in the chalk runs down to Smitham Bottom. Now there are continuous rows of villas and cottages and shops from Croydon to south of Coulsdon station.|[[Victoria County History]], vol. 4|''1912''<ref name="malden">{{cite web|title=Parishes: Coulsdon |editor=H.E. Malden |publisher=Institute of Historical Research |work=A History of the County of Surrey: Volume 4 |access-date=20 October 2013 |url=http://www.british-history.ac.uk/report.aspx?compid=43052}}</ref>}} The valley and routes in Smitham Bottom encouraged some early settlements. An inn, the Red Lion, appears on the Bainbridge map of 1783. The coming of the railway and improved road links encouraged buildings along the sides of the major roadways and close to the stations. Since 1921, the sales of the old estate lands have replaced a countryside of discrete farms with thousands of suburban dwellings. Coulsdon segregated its long-haul from its local traffic with the construction of the Farthing Way A23 bypass, which opened in December 2006<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.tfl.gov.uk/static/corporate/media/newscentre/archive/3752.html|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20120817013248/http://www.tfl.gov.uk/static/corporate/media/newscentre/archive/3752.html|url-status=dead|title=Transport for London|archivedate=17 August 2012}}</ref> as part of the Coulsdon Town Centre Improvement Scheme.
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