Editing Bubble and squeak (section)

==History==
The name of the dish, according to the ''[[Oxford English Dictionary]]'' (OED), alludes to the sounds made by the ingredients when being fried.<ref name=oed/> The first recorded use of the name listed in the OED dates from 1762;<ref name=oed>{{Cite OED|bubble and squeak}}</ref> ''The St James's Chronicle'', recording the dishes served at a banquet, included "Bubble and Squeak, garnish'd with Eddowes Cow Bumbo, and Tongue".<ref>"Bill of Fare of a West-India Dinner", ''The St James's Chronicle'', 16–18 September 1762, p. 1</ref> A correspondent in ''The Public Advertiser'' two years later reported making "a very hearty Meal on fryed Beef and Cabbage; though I could not have touched it had my Wife recommended it to me under the fashionable Appellation of ''Bubble and Squeak''".<ref>"To the Printer of the ''Public Advertiser''", ''The Public Advertiser'', 9 February 1764, p. 1</ref> In 1791 another London paper recorded the quarterly meeting of the Bubble and Squeak Society at [[Smithfield, London|Smithfield]].<ref>"Present Week", ''The Diary, or Woodfall's Register'', 28 February 1791, p. 3</ref>

[[File:Rundell-bubble-and-squeak.png|thumb|upright=1.5|alt=scan of early 19th century page of text, giving ingredients as in the adjoining paragraph to this image|[[Maria Rundell]]'s recipe, 1806]]
The dish as it is made in modern times differs considerably from its first recorded versions, in which cooked beef was the main ingredient and potatoes did not feature. The earliest-known recipe is in [[Maria Rundell]]'s ''[[A New System of Domestic Cookery]]'', published in 1806. It consists wholly of cabbage and rare roast beef, seasoned and fried.<ref name="rundell">Rundell, p. 42</ref> This method is followed by [[William Kitchiner]] in his book ''Apicius Redivivus, or The Cook's Oracle'' (1817);<ref>Kitchiner (1817), p. 302</ref> in later editions he adds a couplet at the top of his recipe:
<poem>
     When 'midst the frying Pan in accents savage,
     The Beef, so surly, quarrels with the Cabbage.<ref>Kitchiner (1827), p. 302</ref> </poem>
[[Isabella Beeton|Mrs Beeton]]'s recipe in her ''[[Mrs Beeton's Book of Household Management|Book of Household Management]]'' (1861) similarly combines cooked beef with cabbage (and, in her recipe, onions) but no potato.<ref name=mb>Beeton, p. 287</ref> An 1848 recipe from the US is similar, but adds chopped carrots.<ref name=k37>Kalman, p. 37</ref> In all of these, the meat and vegetables are served next to each other, and not mixed together.<ref name="rundell" /><ref name=mb/><ref name=k37/>

In 1872 a [[Lancashire]] newspaper offered a recipe for "delicious bubble and squeak", consisting of thinly-sliced beef fried with cabbage and carrot,<ref>"Australian Meat", ''Blackburn Standard'', 20 March 1872, p. 4</ref> but not potatoes, although by then they had been a major crop in Lancashire for decades.<ref>Wilson, p. 218</ref> In the 1880s potatoes began to appear in recipes. In 1882 the "Household" column of ''The Manchester Times'' suggested:
{{blockindent|'''Bubble and Squeak'''. – Mash four potatoes, chop a plateful of cold greens, season with a small saltspoonful of salt and the same of pepper; mix well together, and fry in dissolved dripping or butter (three ounces), stirring all the time. Cut about three-quarters of a pound of cold, boiled beef into neat, thin slices. Fry slightly over a slow fire six minutes. Put the vegetables round the dish and the meat in the centre. Serve very hot.<ref>"The Household Column", ''The Manchester Times'', 11 March 1882, p. 7</ref>|}}

Potatoes featured in a recipe printed in a [[Yorkshire]] paper in 1892 but, as in earlier versions, the main ingredients were beef and cabbage.<ref>"Hearth and Home: Bubble and Squeak", ''York Herald'', 28 May 1892, p. 12</ref>