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==Origin== [[File:Fiore D'Ogni Virtu Per le Nobili Et Honeste Matrone, page 34 (recto) MET DP362393.jpg|thumb|Fiore D'Ogni Virtu Per le Nobili Et Honeste Matrone, page 34. Isabella Parasole]] [[File:BLW Bobbin lace - detail.jpg|thumb|BLW Bobbin lace - detail]] A will of 1493 by the Milanese [[House of Sforza|Sforza]] family mentions lace created with twelve bobbins.<ref>{{cite book|last1=Verhaegen|first1=Pierre|title=La Dentelle Belge|date=1912|publisher=L. Lebègue|location=Brussel|page=10}}</ref> There are two books that represent the early known pattern descriptions for bobbin lace, ''Le Pompe''<ref>{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/12663277|title=Le Pompe, 1559 : patterns for Venetian bobbin lace|date=1983|publisher=R. Bean|others=Levey, Santina M., Payne, Patricia C.|isbn=0-903585-16-2|location=Carlton, Bedford|oclc=12663277}}</ref> from [[Venice]] and ''Nüw Modelbuch''<ref>{{Cite book|last=R.|first=M.|url=https://www.e-rara.ch/doi/10.3931/e-rara-5463|title=Nüw Modelbuoch|publisher=Christoph Froschauer d. Ä.|year=1561|location=Zürich|doi=10.3931/e-rara-5463}}</ref> from [[Zürich]]. Other popular lace pattern books were produced by [[Isabella Parasole]], which included patterns for reticella, needle lace and bobbin lace designs. Other pattern books of this period include Cesare Vecellio<ref>{{Cite book |last1=Vecellio |first1=Cesare |title=Pattern book of renaissance lace: a reprint of the 1617 edition of the "Corona delle nobili et virtuose donne" |last2=Appelbaum |first2=Stanley |last3=Waldrep |first3=Mary Carolyn |last4=Vecellio |first4=Cesare |date=1988 |publisher=Dover |isbn=978-0-486-25828-7 |location=New York}}</ref> and Bartolomeo Danieli.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Bartolomeo Danieli {{!}} Vari disegni di merletti |url=https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/348344 |access-date=2023-12-02 |website=The Metropolitan Museum of Art |language=en}}</ref> Bobbin lace evolved from [[passementerie]] or [[braid]]-making in 16th-century [[Italy]].<ref name="Levey" /> [[Genoa]] was famous for its braids, hence it is not surprising to find bobbin lace developed in the city. It traveled along with the Spanish troops through Europe.<ref name=reigate>{{cite book|last1=Reigate|first1=Emily|title=An Illustrated Guide to Lace|date=1986|publisher=Antique Collers' Club Ltd.|isbn=1-85149-003-5|page=44|edition= 1988}}</ref> Coarse ''passements'' of [[gold]] and [[silver]]-wrapped threads or colored [[silk]]s gradually became finer, and later bleached [[linen]] yarn was used to make both braids and edgings.<ref>{{cite book|title=Fabuleuses dentelles|author=Janine Montupet, Ghislaine Schoeller|year=1988|pages=16–18|publisher=Robert Laffont|isbn=9782221057544}}</ref> The making of bobbin lace was easier to learn than the elaborate cutwork of the 16th century, and the tools and materials for making linen bobbin lace were inexpensive. There was a ready market for bobbin lace of all qualities, and women throughout [[Europe]] soon took up the craft which earned a better income than [[spinning (textiles)|spinning]], [[sewing]], [[weaving]] or other home-based [[textile arts]]. Bobbin lace-making was established in [[charity school]]s, [[almshouse]]s, and [[convent]]s.<ref name="Levey" /> In the 17th century, the textile centers of [[Flanders]] and [[Normandy]] eclipsed Italy as the premiere sources for fine bobbin lace, but until the [[Industrial Revolution]] and the coming of mechanization hand-lacemaking continued to be practiced throughout Europe, suffering only in those periods of simplicity when lace itself fell out of fashion.<ref name="Levey" /> Some skilled lace makers work to re-create older lace patterns based on the period portraiture and extant lace samples.<ref>{{Cite book|last=Dye, Gilian|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/870644836|title=Surface decoration in silk and metallic thread|year=2013|isbn=978-0-9553223-5-8|location=Glasgow|oclc=870644836}}</ref> On paintings that have sufficient detail, entire pieces can be reconstructed by lacemakers who understand the early structural techniques and details.<ref>{{Cite web |date=2018-07-24 |title=Lace for Lady Anne Clifford by Gilian Dye |url=https://www.britishportraits.org.uk/blog/lace-for-lady-anne-clifford/ |access-date=2020-10-05 |website=Understanding British Portraits |language=en-GB}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|title='Portraits and Lace' by Gil Dye|url=https://www.britishportraits.org.uk/research-papers/portraits-and-lace-by-gil-dye/|access-date=2020-10-05|website=Understanding British Portraits|language=en-GB}}</ref>
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